You can get a major rebuild kit from napa for less than a 100.00 bucks, I ran one in my C-4 for 8 years. Put it through some abuse. Still looked OK when torn down, the high gear clutches was spent but trans never slipped. This would be some good experience for you to rebuild your own for less than a 100.00 bucks. And let me say before i get flamed, THIS KIT PROBALY WONT HOLD 600+ H.P. but it will hold on MOST street driven cars. Besides where can you get that kind of experience for 100.00 bucks?
one of the possible problems with shift kits is how the line pressure is affected. they often improve the shifts without increasing the pressure that applies the clutch packs. a rev man vb increases pressure to the 170 psi area. while this robs a couple of more hp, it applies the clutch packs harder to prevent slippage. internal pressure in a c4 transbrake usually exceed 250 psi when the tb is activated. drops to about 180 when u let go the button. more clutches & higher pressure to lock them is what prevents slippage when you raise the hp. if you have some hp & "use" it much on the street, i would still suggest a r/m vb even if its not a "track only car".
The trans-go reprogram kit increases line pressure with engine load, I personally will not use a rev man valve body due to the fact line pressure is always high, This does nothing more than put undue stress and pressure on everything. Have you ever seen a thrust bearing in the motor taken out because of uncontrolled line pressure? A C4 always needs the kick down and or passing gear linkage hooked up this also helps with line pressure control.
The price is right, and I have the Haynes Ford Transmission Rebuild book, but every time I look at it, it just scares the crap out of me If you guys think I could do it, I might take a stab at it. I am currently running maybe 200HP, maybe 250, so It doesn't have to be a killer tranny. I guess a new heavy duty c4 is only $1000 out of JEGS, if I screw mine up... Who has done one and what kind of stories/warning/hints can I get before i decide to do it. I need to do it soon, if for nothing else than to seal up all the leaks (I always have 1/4 quart on the floor under the car).
If you can do the shift kit, you can do the rebuild, just follow the book to the letter. Cleanliness is the most important,next is end play clearance, next is clutch pack clearance, The first auto i rebuilt i didn't even have a book, it worked fine, The C4 is relatively simple in terms of auto transmissions.
OK, I got permission, and set up a sticky thread with the Burly4X4 instructions and pictures. I added some stuff that I learned while doing this. Thread is at http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=29770
Sounds like there are some auto tranny gurus here. I would just to go slightly O/T for a second to get a link or site answer... I need a link to info on how to increase line pressure and put quick shifts into a 1990 E4OD. It shifts soft, always has, and just makes the truck feel weak. All the aftermarket stuff, especially electronic is aimed at later E4ODs. IIRC, mine is the first year and have very little electronic control. Thanks! Dave
I have NO clue as to any mods on these. I know ther ehas to be some, but I dont know of any. Do they not sell a shift kit for these at your local tranny shop? My gramps has a 98 F-150 w/ the same transmission and it shifts the exact same way... but has never failed.
one good trick for a novice is to disassemble the trans in a vertical position, afte removing the valve body. reason: there are several thrust washers throughout the trans. when you loosen the front pump & pull it out in a horizontal position, all the washers will usually fall out of their correct position. if you take it apart vertically you can see them in their proper position, & make notes. while books are good, i feel its worth the trouble for a novice to see them where they belong. you can reassemble it on the bench horizontally since you can use trans assembly gel, wheel bearing grease, or even vaseline to hold them where they belong while you put the other parts in on top of them. the other point is that you should reuse whatever rollers, bushings, washers, etc that you can if they arent damaged. except maybe the front pump seal & bushing since you really want a babbit bushing in there in place of the oem bronze one. everything is kind of worn in with each other. just possibly reset the end clearance, if needed, & go run it. keep it simple. at lower hp levels (under maybe 500) you dont need welded jelly beans, case passages reamed out, hardened inputs, etc. just some extra clutches & steels, & a good valve body. and pay the money for a converter with quality parts in it. its a beach when you break the parts in the converter & get to pull your fresh rebuild apart to remove the metal pieces. been there done that, & my son only makes about 275 hp. most 11" & some 10" performance conv are essentially oem with the stall upped some. i took it to the track, pulled the 2-3 shift & had no gear. buzzed the motor & all ( rev/man vb will shift HARD). turned out i shattered the turbine hub in the conv. you might look & wonder why 400 for something like an ATI streetmaster? yeah, oem casing, but brazed fins, better stator & sprag, & aftermarket turbine hub, etc. you get what you pay for. E4OD? dont know much, but do know always replace solenoids on a rebuild, & in a towing situation get a trans commander (?) from banks engineering to change the shift characteristics. he uses that to make the trans last behind his turbo package. i see trannys with rev man vb apart all the time. no thrust washer issues, or other issues. most common problem is lack of fluid. amazing how many people build a stout c4 & dont opt for a deeper pan. use a quality vb usually around 170-180 psi. i see glides apart with 225 psi pressure with no issues. you get what you pay for may be? only know what i have seen.
That is a mechanical kit? There are a bunch of electronic upgrades, but none work on a 90 model... Thanks! Dave
TheTransGo reprogramming kit is 40-2 or 47-2 depending on the year of C4 that you have. They increase line pressure and modify some of the restrictors and replace some of the valves. They supply the vacuum modulator and pan gasket in the kit along with everything else you need to do the installation. These kits work and work well. with a V8 transmission (5 clutches in the Fwd and 4 clutches in the direct clutch) they will happily hold 350 HP If the rest of the transmission is in good shape. They will not make a worn out transmission work - no kit will do that except a rebuild kit.
I'm glad someone has had luck with these kits... Ive seen them make shifting even softer than before, or hardly no difference at all Ive used B&M and had ok luck with it... none with transgo. Best kit I've found for a C4/C6 is the Fairbanks and install the level right below manual VB
TransGo sells different kinds of kits. The reprogramming kits are 40-2 and 47-2 for the C4. I have never seen one that was installed that didn't make the owner smile - well there was one guy that thought it shifted too hard.
