should i go 347 stroker or slightly beefed up 302?

so just a guess from yall of course, but with a 1/4 cam, reasonably priced better flowing heads ($800 limit), dual plane intake, 4 barrel holly, long tube headers and dual straight 2 1/2" exhaust.....whats your guess on hp and torque?

not that it really matters as i say im not going to race it.

i also will be getting the gear vendors overdrive unit for the C4 and rear gears will probably be 3.55-4.10 depending on what GV recommends to hit 90mph and turn 2500rpm.

 

Why not get a built aod probably cheaper than that overdrive unit and probably be dependable with the power you looking at

 

Agreed, around 3K RPM is when the party starts...

Peak HP at 3K RPM is maybe 125 at best...

 

I could be wrong, but I think the 800 buck heads will want to make power above 3000 and will not drastically improve performance under 3000. In fact, If you want to cruise at 2500 rpm mostly, your current set up will probably work just as well and might use less fuel. If you want to use some RPMs to get to cruising speed QUICKLY, that is a different matter.

 

Agree with Krazy Comet. You need to rev to 6000 rpm to see serious HP. Having said that, if you want to see something similar to what you seem to want build, you can check out the Edelbrock website and look at their E Street package for pre 1981 small block Fords. It looks like it would take you to about 320 HP on an engine dyno if you rev it to 6000 RPM. Still, you would feel the torque improvement over stock even taking it to 3000 or 3500 rpm.

MD

 

While its true that it typically improves peak power the most..better flowing heads can also make more power everywhere in the powerband to greatly improve average power. Add considerably more compression..at least 10.25:1.. and you will be well beyond any factory heads potential under 3,000 rpm. Even though the duration may be kept within reason.. the higher flowing heads can make the motor think you increased the intake valve size by a larger margin and are also lifting it much much higher.

 

new aluminum heads will have hardened seats too......and lower the octane requirement....and be lighter....lol, I might talk myself into a pair too.

 

Once you do you'll never go back to the factory door stops... The set of Trick Flow heads I bought for my T-Bird in '99 converted me...

 

Relocating the intake valves on bore limited motors only adds more icing to that cake too.

 

Another thing to consider is that if you're building an engine anyways?.. it's downright silly to not go with a stroker crank at about the same price. The longer stroke will make the powerband swell earlier if you don't like to rev the engine a lot. Also wakes the induction system up due to greater airflow demand too. More torque early on from the go pedal.

 

i considered that and i still may go aod but im still getting the bear vendors unti. it splits the gaers and keeps the rpms tight and gives a final drive that allows you to gear with 4.10s and still have a good cruising gear. also ytou can turn it off and on.

 

so im still learning things here on cranks. if the crank is all i need without extra stuff to make it work right, then sure i can do that to. my engine money limit will be about 5k. anymore than that and ill just be wasting money i could use on other parts.

 

5k? heheheheh....I'll keep my mouth shut and just listen.

 

Lol i know. Well as of right now ill only need new heads and a four barrel. Now im assuming i can bolt the heads on and be done if i dont get fancy with them. I hope so anyway.

 

You need specific pin height pistons to match 5.315 or 5.4" rods for that 3.25" stroker crank. Might want to plan on new pushrods depending on installed valve/spring height. And don't forget the roller rockers too. Always check PTV clearances too or you may end up flushing money down the drain if it chews the valves/pistons up.

PS. If you're not sufficiently equipped.. or savvy on building shortblocks?.. just buy one to bolt the rest of the parts onto. You'll add safety margin and have more hair left at the end of the build.