well the kit I purchased wayyyyy back in the day (see, you're not the only one who's been collecting parts for years) was the roller block with the stroker kit from CHP down in the Torrance, CA. They tested the setup with several heads and the vitor heads had the best performance which is why I picked it back in the day. Of course now with the supercharger going on it I'm not sure what I will do.
You do know there is a top side and bottom side on the rings and you need to clock the rings on the piston. You need to check the ring gap with the rings off the piston.
sorry, should have been more specific. so yea, we took the rings out of the box, placed them square in the bores and measured them. Bryant is the man on that stuff, he knows his stuff really well so no worries. there are 2 rings and these are the shapes the come in: The latter ones should go on the bottom, I'm assuming with that little wedge facing down and the first drawing is the top ring with the wedge facing up.
ah yes the supercharger... sorry to see that other post go sour...lol! bananamanlol! but yeah was that victor before or after the RPM came out. because that was my choice before too becuase well there was nothing in between the perfromer and the victor jr and the torker two was horrible. the RPM did the best hands down! but like you said who cares...lol! i traded my RPM and sold my victor to Okibono both manifolds were like brand new. lol!
hey Bryant, I'll stop by Monday and if you aren't too busy maybe we can do more work on the engine. I found this insert that goes with the pistons, pretty cool, didn't know that clearances would have to be measures for the pistons as well. for FPS series it's .002-.005 and for SRS/PRS series it's .003-.007. More things to check I guess.
So I spoke to Greg the machinist and the plot thickens . . . he recommended several things saying that they aren't absolutely necessary but for the longevity of the motor he'd recommend them. So here it goes: Balancing the rotating assembly (as before) Pin fit pistons pin fit rods check deck height hone block (initial hone was not enough for piston clearance) check piston clearance final wash of block blueprint assemble short block (I'll explain this one) So all the clearancing and fitting of the piston and rod pins is because of the increased pressure I'm gonna be putting on the engine. As I discussed it with him, some of this stuff I could have not done but I really would like to hang on to this engine, do it once and do it right. Bryant and I were supposed to assemble the short block. However, he has to assemble a lot of things for the blueprinting and he said he'd have to charge me for disassembling them just so I can assemble it later with Bryant. It's a shame but it'll save me some money. I suppose Bryant and I will have plenty of work with long block assembly and cams and rockers etc.
Here is the price breakdown . . . a lot more than I wanted to spend, which means I had to dump my girlfriend to avoid the friday night dinners. balancing rotating assembly ($225) polish crankshaft ($30) remove/replace spirolocks ($85) pin fit pistons ($42) pin fit rods ($42) probe blower pistons -20cc ($415) trial assemble/check deck height ($100) hone block ($175) final wash block ($75) file fit piston rings ($70) blueprint and assemble short block ($425) TOTAL ($1720.31)
add another $200 . . . he recommended main studs instead of the stock bolts, which meant that honing had to be done and $50 for the studs . . . ok, that's it though. I'm officially broke for the next 2 months. How long can I store the short block for before running it in a car?
