Ok it's been a while since I posted. I ordered oil pan rails so we can finish the bottom end. I ordered an oil dip stick tube. I also got the bung that welds onto the oil pan for the supercharger oil line. I also started rebuilding the carburetor I got a while ago. It's a double pumper I got used for $150. It's in decent shape. Has already had some work done to it. Here is the oil bung for the oil pan. Thinking about welding it on myself but worried it'll leak. Here is the carb. It has some mods done to it. The top was shaved off, the air bleed holes have been enlarged and the power valve holes have been enlarged as well. We took it apart but we gotta get a bigger accel pump and also need to replace the accel pump level off the throttle linkage because it's worn out and made out of plastic. These are the modification that someone else did to this carb who used it on a turbo. The power valve circuit is drilled out to 0.081" The inner front and rear air bleeds are 0.0595" The outer front air bleeds are 0.0785" The outer rear air bleeds are 0.052"
Mo I have a ( 1 ) 50cc acelator pump with all or maybe all the parts if you want it it's yours give me your address or I could send it to bryant. Jay
Jay rocks! thanks for the parts. All I need is to pick up the front dipstick, the oil pan rails and have the bung welded onto the oilpan and I should be ready for the install.
finally got the dip stick tube. still waiting for the oil pan rails but I think the supplier is gonna be slacking on that so we went ahead and bolted the pan on. PS: new camera so hopefully better quality pics from now on It fits in pretty easy. We made this hole ourselves a while ago. So just took a wrench over the lip and hammered this sucker in. Then bryant took a tube bender and bent the tube to the proper shape. Here it is with the pan bolted on. ARP bolts, gorgeous isn't it?
Next on the list was the intake swap. Basically the intake on my engine is what I want to put on the this new engine we are building. I bought a replacement intake from someone on this board that isn't quite as good and I slapped that onto my car today. I pulled into bryant's shop around 830am and we drove the car out for lunch at 12, pretty good. We started out with this Carb and nitrous plate removed and some of the wires undone. Since the distributor had to come out we put a mark on the dizzy housing where the rotor was pointing and marked on the valve cover where it was pointing (you can see the mark in this pic). Then as I was pulling the dizzy out I marked where the rotor sat and marked the opposide valve cover for that. That really really really helped because it went in great, needed a little pursuasion but that's another story Here is the one I got from a board member, needed the gasket surface cleaned pretty good. Used a wire wheel. Drained the coolant Look how nice the intake came out after cleaning the surface The performer RPM is what I put on my maverick for now Here is the RPM airgap out of my car that I'll clean up later and put on the engine, maybe tomorrow if Bryant will let me crash his shop for the 3rd day in a row. They haven't gotten tired of me yet, or they are hiding it really well. The last installed didn't clean up the gasket sticking into the water passage but it wasn't a big deal. Felpro gasket, some sealant on all surfaces around the passages. Placed the intake right on top (after bolting the thermostat housing to the front) and that's it. We also put the edelbrock on and left the holley off since that's gonna go on the new motor. The edelbrock had a problem of the secondaries not opening up. Bryant was able to fix that, something about some rod or something like that, I was too excited about the intake swap I did so I wasn't listening.
we will be at the shop at 8 waiting for you. your always welcome. your very entertaining you can even use the hammers just dont grab the spark plug wires again.
So here is what we did for the oil pan. I decided to tackle the welding, what you don't see is all the grinding. I think I welded 3 lbs of metal on there. It took me 3 attempts but we checked it for leaks and it wasn't leaking, finally. Here is the bung and the drill bit we used, really easy to drill through I cleaned the bung really well and sanded the area where I was going to do the welding. This was my second attempt. As you can see we put the hole plug in there but initially I had it clamped down with a C clamp. After it wasn't leaking anymore I grinded it down as much as possible and masked off the area and spray painted it. Looks decent.
That looks nice! If it was me i would have taken the easy route and just JB welded it on there. Like all the turbo guys do. But your build is going to be top notch with all the attention to details.
That's good to know. And jb weld would be durable I'm guessing. I'm thinking if it leaks then maybe I can use that stuff around it.
When I put a bung like that into a pan I turn the side that will go into the pan down on the lathe. I drill a hole that the turned down section will go into and it leave just enough shoulder on the inside to tak a nice fusion weld. From the outside only the heat marks showand the two surfaces are closer to the same thichness so the welding is easier too. Just a thought for next time.
