so im thinking of a future upgrade of getting power steering and dropping my manual set up. what is a cost effective NEW version of the stock power steering setup? i dont want anything fancy, just a basic power steering as good as stock or slightly better for a decent price. any advice or ideas before i dive into this? mine is a 70 with a stock 200, however the switch will be done when i put a 347 in. will be a few years it looks like. thanks all!
Although I'm a major proponent of original, locating & installing all the parts sub assemblies etc will probably be expensive. Plus for system to work as factory, the steering sector must be replaced with quicker P/S unit. Also if purchased used will probably need rebuilt, new hoses etc. I rebuilt the orig system on my Comet for around $250, but I also had a second complete system to pick needed parts from. Last year I spent around $300 for rebuild items to convert my Cobra Jet to P/S, but again I had two complete systems on hand. Chocostang does sell complete units for Stang, Torino etc, dunno if they have Mav Comet. There are three different steering links '75-'77, easiest to locate parts. I installed the newer parts on my Comet. http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/ Although there is some fabrication involved, with engine removed installing a system such as Borgeson should be fairly straightforward. Others have installed these, I'll now bow out. http://borgeson.com/ Note tube headers can create challenges when installing either system, plus column shift and/or clutch linkage may not play nice with the Borgeson.
thanks. im only doing it because anything above 75mph starts to feel a bit squirrly. im sure ill be going faster than that with the 347. lol just dont want to die.
On my Borg setup, I had no issues w/long tube headers. I recently installed Hedmann shorty's and I believe I have a slight interference w/ pitman arm on tight left turn; I didn't have it w/ long tubes. It's not an issue normal operation. It's been a little warm here, so haven't been under the car to examine the situation. Also, I do believe Borg. states setup won't work w/ column shift and OE type clutch linkage; probably not issue w/ cable or hyd. setup.
Have you checked/replaced any of the other front suspension parts, tie rods, idler arm, ball joints etc.? What about wheel alignment too? Just changing over to PS will not eliminate the "squirrelly" feeling if the rest of your suspension is not up to snuff.. David
Hey Everett: I've got a photo of Yourself and me on the HRPT a couple of years ago . I'm selling the Maverick to a guy in New Orleans and I put up some photos of the Maverick and someone wanted to see some pictures of my Maverick outside .. SO ...... Look in the pics on the post. : ) Cometized (Chip)
I totally agree with this comment. What are you running for caster? The manual calls for negative but I set mine a bit positive - at speed it makes the car very stable.
Not having positive caster car does not want to center the wheels at speed. not having enough toe in is a great way to induce wander as the front tires fight to see who gets to lead the car. With worn components the alignment can go from toe in to toe out at speed. all it takes is a little wear on all the components to add up to a lot of wandere. Mike
Great point guys. I assume the front is alligned right as its never felt off until I put on the 15" cragar ss wheels and the new 235/60 fronts. Since then it pulls slightly to the right. But not too bad imo. The front end parts do need replaced as they look old but again not so bad as to make me feel concerned. I have all new parts but am waiting to get the 347 in first before I throw the v8 springs in it. Dont want to drive around with the front in the air until then. I suppose after reading this...ill leave everything as is u til I get the 347 in along with the new front end. Also will be using roller spring perches. The rest of the parts are stock new.
Rebuilding steering after engine pull is the way to go. I did complete steering, suspension & brakes while I had mine out.
I replaced every part in my front end that could possibly be worn. I insisted on doing my own alignment....so I had it wrong after three tries. The car steered so-so until it got over 60, then it was touchy and a handful to keep straight. On the fourth try, I think I have it very close because it FINALLY steers normal.....NICE even. So, I know first hand how bad a car rolls and steers with poor alignment, and my next step is to find a shop that can dial it in completely. Do some research before you install v-8 springs. I got the ride height I wanted with the lightest weight 6 cyl springs, and did not cut them. There is a surprising amount of writing about springs.
Agreed. Using the original V8 springs with the alu intake/headed 306, my Comet stuck it's noise in the air. I lucked into a pair of new TRW 8088 6 cyl springs, are just right.
Hmmm. Ive been wondering if 6cyl springs would be better. I want the front to stay exactly as is now.