perfectly John...and it's one of the things I'm not sure of, I'm thinkin more of a heads up car...I just don't know at this point. The car will be an 1/8th mile car. 800 hp will put it in the mid 5 sec. for an ET if I can keep the weight around 2400 lbs.
One thing in heads-up racing.....weight is one way they use to keep it competitive AND to slow the cars down a little.....I am not sure what the Outlaw 10.5 in FFW run at as far as weight. But around here the outlaw cars are atleast 3,000 pds. Depending on whether you are NA or run a power adder, one of the real problems with this is I hear a lot of guys complain about breaking parts with the weight(atleast in this area). Keep us posted
Sounds very interesting Rick!! Just speaking from experience, I would build the chassis before I built the motor, gonna take a heck of a chassis setup to get that power to the ground consistently!! Those heads look like a good choice, I know that John Kaase has built many record breaking motors!!! Since you're going big block, I would try to get as much weight off the front as possible!
Sounds like this thread could get interesting... As for a 80 over motor, why wouldnt you start with a better block and go from there? Just curious
I would ask about filling the block before the .080 bore job, then run it on alcohol. Carb or injected, either one is going to run cooler and make lots of power. Very little distortion of cylnders and rings with the concrete, negative side is added weight to the already heavy torque monster.
Pick up the Jan 2005 issue of Mustang & Fords magazine. They have an article in there about getting 850 hp out of this motor. There should be something in there you could use.
Dennis your dead on..thats where I got some of the info on the build, those are SCJ heads there using in the article, the bore isn't gonna have to be as radical as an 80 over..30 will suffice with the stroker kit to take it to 512c.i. Those heads are are whats gonna give it it's power. Stephen the cars a 71 Mav already setup for a big block M11 front end, tubbed, 9"narrowed, 11 point cage, single leaf and coils overs. Been sittin up for years. I'm gonna build the bottom end based on what Kasse recommends for those heads. I'll probably also go with what he recommends on the top end I may even by the top end stuff from him also, he will port match the intake to the heads, he's go an awesome dual quad tunnel ram custom made intake...I'm sure it has an awesome price too. I understand Kasse is one of the go to guys on Ford Big Block stuff. Thx for all the input yall, keep it comin.
Depending on what block you use, you can go as much as .140" oversize. I believe the C8VE, C9VE and D0VE blocks will do it just fine....and I also believe that I have seen sonic results for the D1VE blocks that will accept a .100". I read an article once where a home-made stroker 540 was built with 240 Ford Six rods, custom pistons, and an offset-ground factory crank...and .140" over bore. Made over 700 HP with D0VE-C heads in a boat for over 2 hours straight and when freshened up, it looked brand new. I could only imagine what it'd do with the SCJ Aluminum heads (or A460 heads for that matter.) 4 digit HP levels wouldn't be that hard to accomplish
its filling all the water ports/sleeves solid. They make a mix that you poor into the passage ways. It strengthens the block, but obviously it has its draw backs.......definitely not for a street car. Folks around here call it "dry block".
My buddy filled his 302 in a mustang with the mix. Does pretty decent. MAKE SURE you fill the block before you have it bored and such. It will shrink the bores... we know, we learned the hard way because he blew up several motors by the tops of the pistons being to snug w/ the block
Just for info, Moroso makes a filler that comes in gallon jugs. Looks like powdered concrete. Mix with water and with the block standing in end, is poured into the water pump holes. One side is done at a time and then let setup for a few days each side. After it hardens(like concrete) the block is then bored and honed to size. There is just enough space left when filling, to allow water to flow into the heads and manifold crossover. This helps the bore retain exact tolerances and also less ring end gap variations thru the entire stroke of the piston. As stated, is not for street use but for short drag race times works fine, as the water temp will be higher because of lack of volume in the block. Surprisingly, the mustang 302 with aluminum radiator and electric fan and water pump, runs at 195 to 200 after a summer time pass down the track. Weight is a factor though, mix a batch of quickcrete in a wheel barrow and you will see the difference in it from dry to wet as a comparison. With a main girdle, the engine seems to be a lot tougher and able to handle some serious rpm's and HP increases with out self destructing. Very popular with the stick shift guys running Lenco's and dumping the clutch at 8000 r's off the line. NOS guys really should look into this process more, IMO.
okay...email has been sent to Jon Kaase for his recommendation on how to prep the block and what stroker kit he recommends. If he recommends the dry block thats what I'll do. He claims he's put the Ford stroker kit through grueling dyno pulls and its always perfomed well, what he doesn't say if he was useing a dry block or not.
