If you have the correct balancer that came on the car; it can be rebuilt. I had the same issue, ordered a balancer from one of the major vendors, did not fit -- returned it and had the original rebuilt. If I recall correctly, was around $100.00 bucks. I will check my records and post the rebuilder -- If you want!
NOTE!! A C9 pulley is likely marked fo use with a driver side timing pointer, also those should use three bolt pulleys so won't work in a '70-later application... Sorry for any confusion
"84 ford pick up" it's not a Maverick/Comet...then I don't care either...LOL the truck I sold last year had 280K on it and some people that saw it "thought it was new". I cared...LOL
I'm leaning toward putting everything back together as is. It all depends if I can get my work computer to work from home, which is a whole other mess. If I can, then I'll have a extra week or so to wait for parts to arrive. For the chain, how interchangeable are these parts. Do I have to worry about slight size differences in the gears, or are they all roughly the same? The number on the top gear is E3AE-A3A FE3-1. The only ID I could find was for a 67 FORD Mustang True Roller Timing Gear. It has a double roller timing chain and 2 piece fuel pump eccentric. I was looking at this one, if anyone thinks it's suitable: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-1138/overview/year/1973/make/ford The harmonic balancer is actually a 4 bolt one, and the pointer is on the passenger side. I found a few of the same type on ebay with cracked rubber. A rebuild is probably the best option.
Measure from the surface that contacts the end of the crankshaft to the surface the pulley bolts to. If this measurement is the same as your old balancer, pulley alignment should be the same. As far as the chain goes, I have not put one on a Ford yet.
That timing set will work. That's what I have inside my 331 with a mid 80's timing cover off a Crown Vic (fuel pump boss isn't punched out)
I finally got the job done. So far everything runs without problems. I went and ordered the Cloyes timing chain I linked to above and had it sent overnight. I glad I did, because this is not a job I want to redo anytime soon. Putting everything together was a bunch harder then taking it apart. I spent two days working from 12pm-5am. There are always those small things that can hold you up forever. I had some Permatex squish out into one of the bolt holes and dry. It was a long bolt that that went into the block, so I had to stick a rod down there to scrape out a little at a time. This stuff really felt tough. Other than that timing cover and the radiator were the hard part. Positioning the timing cover so all the bolt holes aligned seemed hopeless until I tightened down the oil pan bolts to squeeze down the cork gasket. I had forgotten how difficult the radiator was to try and position. It wasn't positioned so great to begin with. It was hitting the the hood, but not really causing any problems except marking up the underside. When I went to lower it, I remembered why I couldn't do it in the first place. The bottom corner hits the edge of the cross member (or whatever it's called), and I had to shift it over about a centimeter. One side is attached with wire and zip ties. It feels really secure, but I'm not all that happy with it. I'm just going to have to cut a small notch into the cross member. At least this radiator had no problems cooling when I drove hundreds of miles through 115F desert heat. Anyways, thanks for all the help. You guys are awesome.
