is it ok to tow my 71 mav with auto trans with a front tire dolly for 400 miles without tearing anything up, ie tranny or rear end?thanx for your input
Would not advise it, without the pump turning as it does when the engine runs, there is no lube being given to the internals so to speak. Best thing to do is remove the driveshaft and secure a plastic bag like a gallon freezer bag, around the tailshaft housing. Keeps fluid in and dirt out.
unhook the driveshaft and wire it up so you dont have to pull it out of the trans. towing it wont hurt the rearend
thanx guys for all the help.reason i'm asking the question is my wife has always wanted a motorhome,and what baby wants baby gets.we bought a 27ft. coachmen and i would love to have my car to tool around in when we go camping.when i see all the motorhomes with vehicles intow have they all dropped their driveshafts?i know a front wheel drive car you would'nt have to worry about,but their not all fwd.are these old people in their motorhomes climbing underneathe their cars and dropping their shafts(i see old people) or is there something they know that we dont?once again thanx for your input!!!!
well i know that ford recommended that the c-4 shouldnt be towed any faster than 35 mph because it would engage the pump most people i know that tow cars and trucks behind motorhomes have standard trannys in them. not too sure about the newer trannys though they may be different. but driving tow truck for a few years my boss required us to unhook the driveshaft on all rear wheel drives to elimnate the chace of damage to the tranny. but keep in mind pulling behind a motorhome always wears your rear tires and brakes severly. if i were you i would get a trailer and pull it behind you. possibly even an enclosed one if you are getting a decent sized RV. you will be much happier with it. a friend of mine has one behind his to pull his motorcycles and he cant even tell its back there, its a 16 footer
tow so i guess it appears a whole car trailer is my best option.i saw this on ebay.what do you guys think.ironically paducah is where we have property and vacation http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2582026184&category=1269
I own a trailer very similar to that one. Here are a couple of things I would consider (this is not the Gospel on this - my opinion and experience): 1) Get one with electric brakes on at least one axle. Probably not needed if the weight of the trailer and the vehicle combined are going to weigh less than 4,000 lbs, and you are pulling it with an RV. 2) With the railings around the trailer like the one you are looking at, it is very hard, almost impossible to get in and out of the car through the use of the doors - they hit the rails. You may want to look at a true car hauler that does not have the side railings. When you are driving the car on and off the trailer, those railings will become a big pain in the butt. You can pretend you are a NASCAR driver and go through a window, but it would have to stay unless you open the door enough to raise it. 5) Short 42 inch ramps come with utility trailers. Those are almost too short for an automobile. Depending on the angle and level of the trailer, the rear end of the car can scrape bottom going up. Get longer ramps - at least 6 foot long. I made my own to be 6' 8" long. 4) If you are going to haul a car that is less than 15 foot in length and never haul one longer, you can get by with a shorter trailer. The shorter the trailer combined with your RV, the better for cornering. 5) Consider putting a winch on the front. Just in case you need to pull a non-running vehicle on the trailer. Those are my thoughts. I am positive you will see agreement and disagreement with some of them. BTW, I paid $900 for mine, including electric brakes on one axle. It's 16 foot long and has a capacity of 7,000 lbs. It also has the set back jack. I've since added a 3,000 lb electric winch to mine. That's pulling 3,000 lbs straight. With a snatch block, I can probably pull 8,000 lbs (rolling) on to my tailer. Plus, I have built the longer ramps. I've had only vehicle on the trailer that the doors would oprn with the railings - an F250 XLT with the tall 16 inch truck tires.
Personnally, I would not recommend that trailer for hauling cars. I agree with hawkco on every point except I feel trailer brakes are a must. I recommend brakes on 1 axle only. That way if you ever have to do a panic stop, the trailer wont try to pass you. If you dont know what I mean, go in a big parking lot on a rainny day and get some speed up. Now pull the emergency brake to lock your rear wheels. The trailer will do the same if all the wheels lock up. I'm no expert but I'd bet thats one reason why tractor trailers jacknife. Every time I've seen them slide around, their trailer wheels were locked up. That trailer comes with used wheels and tires? How cheesey is that? Spend the money and get a decent trailer. Get one with a drop rear deck (dovetail). Our cars are about 70" wide. That is measuring from the center body line to the same on the other side. If you have wide tires that stick out a little, it will be awful close on a 76" wide trailer. I've seen decent car trailers (new) at Carlisle for arount $1200 to $1400.
I wouldn't haul my pride and joy on a $700 trailer that is advertised to be a "car trailer" when it really isn't. No brakes, USED tires and wheels. Great for the lawnmower...not for a car. Most states require brakes on a car trailer...if not all of them. They also require a break-away kit. These are things to look for on a car trailer. Also look for at least 4' ramps, preferably 5'. Look for D-rings, and look for a dove or beaver tail (the rear slopes down).
That is the kind of trailer I have..............hmmmm Anyway, I had to put a long piece of 2x12 on the trailer to drive the car up on to be able to get the door open. Also, when I pull the car off the trailer, I drive the back tires of the tow vehicle up on ramps....that lowers the rear of the trailer... because I have those cheap ramps as well. I definitely would have bought a different trailer if I knew then what I know now! These guys are right....its NOT a good trailer for a car.......... but it is better than nothing!
O by the way.... I am not saying that driving your tow vehicle up on ramps is the right way or the safe way to do things,,,,,,,thats just what I do.
