Trouble Starting Up

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Bumlife, Jun 3, 2009.

  1. Bumlife

    Bumlife Member

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    My Maverick was running fine up until a couple weeks ago. It has started taking 4-5 attempts to get the engine going, and when it does finally get started, most of the time the rpm's hover at about 500 and then it stalls out when I press on the gas. Once I have gotten it started running well, It will continue to start up just fine for the rest of the day. Every few days it still starts up right away in the morning, so I've been hoping that it's just getting used to the switch from cold to warm up here in Minnesota, but that's seeming less like the case as it drags on.

    I put in a new fuel filter and have sprayed the carborator with carb cleaner, but neither have done much to help. I'm guessing that the carborator probably needs to be rebuilt, but I figured I would get some more knowledgeable opinions before I attempt taking it out. I also changed the oil about a week before the problem started, but I donno if that could be related at all. The car is a '76 4 door with a 250 straight 6.

    Any help is much appreciated, thank you!
     
  2. Bob Wiken

    Bob Wiken Chronologically Gifted

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    sounds like a choke problem to me.
     
  3. maverick4925

    maverick4925 Rust, Rust and more Rust

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    yeah my choke screw on the carb kept loosening itself off. then i put some thread lock on it. but i keep mine 2 1/2 turns out from the carb. i have the same year and engine.
     
  4. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    You need to re-adjust your choke or get a new thermostatic spring/choke housing.
    Make sure the hot wire to the choke housing is connected and has power W/key on if so equipped.
     
  5. Bumlife

    Bumlife Member

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    Thanks guys, I'll give it a try. Is there a bit more detailed of a guide somewhere so I can make sure I'm turning the right screw the right way? I'm going to go out and take a look at it now, so maybe it will make more sense.

    Edit: I tightened up the choke screw a lot, and it is starting every time so far. I was under the impression that this would change the starting rpm's also, but so far they haven't increased from that. I tightened up the other screw a tiny bit also, so its idling closer to 700 instead of 6 or lower. I'll be taking it across town tonight, so I guess we'll find out if it's gotten any better.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2009
  6. Bumlife

    Bumlife Member

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    Well, the adjustments that I made had no effect on the startup problems. I took some pictures so hopefully somebody can show me which parts need to be replaced/readjusted.
     

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  7. Comick76

    Comick76 Grease Monkey

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    Try holding the throttle about 25% open and starting it. If it starts and you can keep it running as long as don't let off the gas, look more closely at the choke parts. If it still won't start I would look at the float/needle/seat (rebuild carb).
    Another thing I would check is the carb mounting nuts. loose nuts are never good.
     
  8. madman21

    madman21 Beer is good

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    Bust that POS off! Or grind it.
     
  9. scott

    scott Member

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    hey Bum...give this a shot- see them three screws on the side of the carb..the ones that look like they keep that round black thing with the wire from moving if they were snug.. loosen them up so you can move that round black thing. you should be able to turn it either left or right. have somebody stand on the gas pedal (uhhh with the engine off). Now what you do is rotate that round black thing until you see the choke flap close. Don't want to close it too tight. just so it touches and maybe a lil more. Tighten the three locking screws. have your helper take his/her foot off the gas. Crank the engine and if it was indeed a choke problem, it should jump into life! This is done best with a cold engine. I see you are in mn where it gets pretty cold. The weather musta warmed up so the choke isn't closing enough. It doesn't get quite that cold here in NJ but in the spring and again in the fall I have to reset the choke for the season. That black round thing has a heating element in it and when you turn the car on, it starts opening the choke. If the engine is screaming once it starts, you may want to back off the "high idle". Also please take no offense to me over-simplifying my explanations and directions as I don't know your skill level. If this won't work, drop me a PM. Good luck
     
  10. Bumlife

    Bumlife Member

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    Oh no, the simpler the better. I'm fine when it comes to bolting things in and out, but this is only my second car. Usually my dad knows enough to get me started with repair projects, but unfortunately he never really messed around with the carburetor's on any of his cars from back in the day.

    I should have the time to give this a try at some point this weekend, I hope that it works!
     
  11. Bumlife

    Bumlife Member

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    Moving that black part around didn't help, because when we opened it up we discovered that the coil inside was snapped in half.

    Now the problem is getting a replacement part, o'reilly and autozone both have 2 different choke thermostats that come up when they search for the replacement, and neither place knew which one was the correct one because they all looked exactly the same in the pictures. One of them thought that it shouldn't matter since you can adjust it when it's on the car, but since it needs to be special ordered I wanted to double check first.

    The Autozone parts are either Duralast E652 or E648. The O'reilly parts are either TH 151 or TH170, and I think the brand name is BWD. I went to NAPA also, and they seemed to actually know what the right part was, but its also costing 41 there instead of 17 for the cheaper one at O'Rielly.
     
  12. madman21

    madman21 Beer is good

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    ......................................
     
  13. LukeDuke

    LukeDuke Member

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    what is a POS?
     
  14. soooulpower

    soooulpower Semi-Informed Tinkerer

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    Uh.. Piece Of SXXX. :whistle:
     

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