Caster/Camber Just a questiion on caster/camber settings. If I'm looking at it right, it appears that you're able to slide the lower A-frames from front to rear in order to get your caster setting and then keep it in place using spacers? Then I would assume that the camber settings are done just by sliding the top A-frames in and out on slots? How was my guessing?
You right about the top a-arms, but the reason one side of the lowers are different is because this is the "new" crossmember from Rod&Custom and they changed the lower mount from a Heidts style arm (which is what I have) to there new designed arm which is a true A-arm like a coilover style. So I have to cut the fronts off and place them in the rear so the lower a-arm ball joints line up with the top. I have only cut off one side so far and IM waiting to get the spindles to make sure this will be correct before moving to the other side and welding everything up. The lowers will have no adjustment. I guess thats why the top mounts have such long grooves.
Would you also adjust your caster settings using the top A-frames and is that all done through the slots in the frame mounts? I'm considering this Rod & Custom set up for my car too. I was a little taken back by the solid mounted lower A-frame and wondering where the caster adjustments would come from. I always hated those GM top A-frame shims but it was all that they had when the lowers didn't move. Do you think that those wide lowers will get in the way of headers? I do like the looks of what you've done already.
I believe the caster geometry is built into the upper a-arm mount. You can tell when you mount them because of the slope to the rear. The camber is adjustable only through the upper a-arm. You shouldn't need any shims since the arms dont mount vertical like a GM arm does. Thats what the slots are for. Remember if you order the crossmember from Rod&Custom you know have to order their lower a-arms also unless you want to modify yours like Im having to do. Its probably best to order the complete kits since they are changing so many things to make sure it all fits together. Its a money thing. They got tired of people buying the same arms cheaper other places so they made it so you had to buy their arms. I dont think header clearence will be an issue.
If there is any caster built into the top A-frame mounting location, that would be a design based on where the center of the top ball joint is in relation to where the bottom one is located. Just check with Rod & Custom as to what the difference would be before you move your bottom A-frames and nail them in place. That rearward angle of the top A-frames is your anit-dive built in.
yeah they told me to cut the fronts off and weld a spacer in the rear. Thats why I havent welded anything in place until I get the spindles then I can set everything up and double check before its set in stone.
More Updates Well got the engine mounts from Speedway motors. Really like the kit good quality easy to install. Setting up and engine and trans by yourself is a major PITA. But I got it done. The engine has the proper 3* degree rear-ward slant sits nice and level. Still have a ways to go but its looking better every day. Maybe I will have it running at least by the Silver Springs show. We'll see.
Yeah I still dont have a radiator in, the front on the engine, any acc., or a brake booster so will have more room taken up by those things. I love having room to work on the engine!
