Not really. It's according were the distributor is nailed down. If it is favoring the advance side it will run because it would be closer to a 1/2 tooth off
When I changed out my ignition had to retard my distributor a tooth in order to get into optimal timing for my new improved spark.
Well I had to do it because the vacuum advance was hitting the radiator hose and I needed another 1/8". Don't do that unless you have an issue like that.
you can install the dist. anywhere you like...here I installed mine so my plug wires would look neater coming out of the cap to the plugs...(thanks Mike)...#1 is at the left front in this cap... ...hold the dist. where you want it (vac. pod clearance), turn the rotor to point where you want #1 and slide on in...
give that man a cigar. :Handshake furthermore.. you can reroute the wires on the cap to wherever you decide #1 ought to be for improving aesthetics. I haven't run factory clocked distributors on anything I'm trying to "pretty up" for many years. lol Easiest for me through the years is to just clock the vacuum pot where I choose and then line up the oil pump shaft as close as possible while dropping it in one tooth retarded to where you want it to end up at #1 when seated. It can be tricky work since the cam gear causes advancement of the rotor as it follows the disty's gear while also needing to compensate for that effect on the oil pump shafts alignment as you go. But take your time and try not to drop anything down the disty hole while you're at it. If I had a buck for every time I've seen or done that myself. lol Otherwise it will be one tooth advanced like you seem to be dealing with now. An old timers trick is to use an old disty with the gear removed or gutted to rob the shaft to use as a handtool. Otherwise, just leave it where it's at and reclock the housing to get rid of excessive advance. Timing lights also work well to give advanced warning.. pun intended.. for these sorts of issues.
Heh, I thought we were perpetrating the myth here that distributor clocking mattered. When I first posted on here asking if needing to retard my distributor seemed reasonable I swear 6 people posted within minutes of each other saying I was clearly doing it wrong. Heck I don't even have a timing pointer on my engine and it runs great. And when I said he shouldn't change his distributor clocking unless he needed to, I was more inferring to not just start with pulling the dist out and re-stabbing it, but actually try and get it running first.
wont i have to take it out to prime the pump again? only ran for a few seconds not enough to break anything in.......
No need to prime the oil pump again. I didn't notice a garden hose in the radiator to keep things cool. A fresh engine will run real hot with all the friction going on. You need at least a fan blowing through the radiator or cold water from the garden hose. Keep the radiator cap off to burp the air. Put the camera down and keep looking for leaks.
timing is too retarded advance it until its not dragging on the starter run it at about 2 grand for a few minutes to break in the cam watch the temp and oil pressure sounds like exhaust rattle and check flexplate like someone already said let it get good and hot shut it down and retighten everything thats loosened up you will find something thats not tight enough if its a new carb right out of the box run it awile then adjust it when the motor is hot ENJOY
i had the electric fan going at full blast, i wasnt the one holding the camera i was the one in the car starting it my buddy was holding the camera
