You can pull the wires one at a time right at the rpm where it starts to miss. You should feel a missfire on the good ones. You won't feel a change on the bad one(s).
It's suppose to be a rebuild and it was 5000 miles. When I first got it it was fine. I have been restoring the body, interior and suspension for the past year. It did site for that time without being started and now I've got the vibration.
Well, I found one source of my vibration. The number 1 plug wire end connector that sits on the plug came off when I pulled the boot off the plug. Fixed it and the engine smooted out some but there is still a light vibration, so I suspect that it is either a plug or another wire. I'm replacing them all just in case. Any suggestions on the type of wires or plugs would be highly appreciated. If that doesn't solve the problem I'm not sure what to do next. Oh yea, currently it has accel 8.8mm and I think motorcraft plugs.
Thats what I'm running. I use the ready to fit wires, I just dont like crimping my own. And when I put on new wires I always pinch down the parts that goes over the tip of the spark plug so that it makes a tight fit and CLICKs over the plug. Most wires seem to barely touch the plug when I get them out of the box.
How long have you had the plugs and wires, and do they seem to work well? I just don't want to go back to a brand that might be crap to start with.
Iv ehad the wires in there for about 10 years, lol. Plugs maybe about half that, because I changed out the heads and needed different ones. I just put new plugs in my 93 Mustang and went with Motorcrafts too. The only other plugs I like are NGK or Denso. Wires I dont have a big preference on, as long as I get a good fit on the plug and the cap. they all take a little work to get them to CLICK into place otherwise im not confident they are making a good connection.
Well I have replaced all plugs and wires now and still have a miss and vibration so I'm thinking a burnt valve. Any thoughts?
Pull the plug wires off one at a time while it's running, looking for the one that doesn't lower the rpm at all when it's off..Use insulated pliers to avoid getting zapped....If you locate one that doesn't change with the wire off, you've isolated the cylinder....Assuming all is good with the ignition, do a compression check on that cylinder It should read approx. 100-175 lbs...If it does, next thing i would do is a leakdown test which consists of a hose that screws into the sparkplug hole, a pressure gauge and a schraeder valve to pump air into...Back off the nuts on those 2 rocker arms to make sure the valves are closed..You want to pump air into the cylinder and see if it holds pressure....If it does, great, the valves and rings are good, if it loses pressure see if you can here air leaking through the carb {which would be intake valve} or exhaust pipe {exhaust valve}...A stethoscope makes it a little easier but it should be able to be heard without it.....
I've tried pulling the plug wires one at a time and they all seem to change the idle of the car.. I do here a light tapping noise on the drivers side of the engine though.
Sounds like you have mechanicle component problem. Remove the rocker cover on the side with the "light tapping sound" and visually inspect the valve train components. You may have aworn out/brken or mis-adjusted rocker...bent or too short/long push rod...flattened valve stem tip...broken valve spring...weak lifter etc... You should be able to spot the rocker thats noisey by touching it with your finger tip while the engine is running (Warning!! this will be messy!!!) oil is gonna splash around. You will feel a double tap in your finger on the noisey rocker as opposed to a smooth up/down motion. Once you find it determine why its tapping and go from there. Good luck!!!
