That is the goal for early spring. Ride height should be easy with the 4 coil overs. Most suspension points are now in place even though most are just tack welded for now - I want to roll it out the door so I can clean that side of the garage
Can't wait to see a picture with all "four's" on the ground.................but then again I'll bet you can't either!
ok.. sorry I was bit slow on the uptake here.. I thought it was already running and you were trying to correct it after the fact. lol I think it's good that your contemplating the proper line of attack for the issue.. but I'm guessing that you'll need to get it down and sitting where you like it before doing any machine work. If it's drag only.. it's not bad to actually adjust the carb tilt so that it's a bit forward to compensate for front end lift on the way down the track. But for a street/strip car.. a very slight rearwards angle won't hurt much..other than your taste for perfection.. if you have anti-slosh foam and/or jet extensions. When I got my 383 powered S10 Blazer.. it had a nasty tilt due to the JTR S10/V8 swap mounts which caused issues with float level consistency and the primary plates emulsion holes despite having jet extensions on the rear bowl. Most of those issue went away when I mod'd both front and rear bowls with the aforementioned foam and extensions. But like you.. I never liked that canted-ass look.. not to mention that it caused me to have to run a shorter air filter than I preferred and really played havoc when I switched to a non-canted Brodix intake.. so I customized both the perches and the mounts to set it down more than 2 inches. More recently I heavily mod'd my air-gap(poted and welded spacer) to go in place of the Brodix when I detuned it and put the interior back in for resale purposes.. and that slanted pad of the air-gap looks beautifully level now. Can still only fit a 3" air filter under the 4" cowl hood.. but it's better than the 2.5" it replaced. Would have never been possible with a spacer alone and it was the sum of all parts that did the trick.
Street only - mostly aiming for the summer car shows and cruises I assume that the foam and jet extensions are best for carbs in a straight line - mine are mounted sideways My rear sump Canton oil pan was originally designed for installing a Cleveland in a Fox body Mustang with the notch in the pan to clear the Mustang cross member - I now have the pan just up off of my Mustang II cross member - I got it lower and to the rear a little more by making a drop bracket for my rack - I'll re-correct the rack to spindles with a bump steer kit I love that saying - it describes my situation to a tee - every Mustang II type suspension manufacturer that I talked to all told me that this swap "CAN NOT" be done using a Cleveland - so far, using a sum of many parts and ideas, my engine sits in the chassis using a front aluminum engine plate, about an inch higher than it should and an about inch further forward than it should - maybe a degree too much angle also - I think I've progressed from big problems to just little problems now
So do you have a picture from underneath showing the pan and crossmember......................just wonder what it looks like.
The first 2 pictures are from when I first put the engine in the chassis - it was pretty much just laying on the cross member until I got the engine plate mounted and built the drop bracket for the rack - you can see that I was limited by the notch in the Canton pan - the third photo shows the drop bracket and the last photo shows the bump steer kit
hmm.. that is tight. Do you have a windage tray hanging off that blocks mains? And to be honest here.. from the picture above.. it doesn't look so bad. Once you get the front end down it may be better than you had imagined. Maybe? lol
well.. I was going to say that the pan could easily be wittled down a bit shallower in the belly between the 2 sumps(a built in scraper will be up a little higher towards the rail and shouldn't be an issue).. but on closer inspection that rack's going to be your limiting factor so I don't think there is much additional clearance to be found there. On the other hand.. you're obviously pretty well versed in shapinging metal with fire.. and I know there's at LEAST another half inch or maybe considerably more to be had there if you wanted to go to the trouble to find it. IOW's.. just notch the pans belly a bit more between the sumps. You ever build custom pans before?
You can see that I took the rack out of the equation by making the drop bracket as far as height clearance goes but you can also see why the engine sits 1 inch forward now because of that same rack. I wouldn't do that much work to the pan for only a half inch gain. I think I've squeezed all of the extra clearance out of this build that I can. I've had to build a new trans cross member to accommodate the engine sitting 1 inch forward and notched the passenger side frame rail and the firewall for the right side header. I won't let it beat me
