What did you do to your Maverick or Comet today

I bought a new 15x6 wheel put a new tire on. I mounted it in the trunk with all new hold downs, covered it with a new tire cover. Added a new jack, also bought a new jack bag and a matching round bag for my jumper cables. All that's left to do in the trunk is add the floor mat...

 

Mine actually moved for first time in a couple months.

Needed to get up to garage door opener for a repair, once that was done I was going for a ride but weather turned ugly. Drove it back in garage. This summer has either been too damn hot or wet, haven't driven either more than a few miles.

 

It's a good thing we have forum rules re language..lol. I planed about an hr to change the M/C out for preventive maintaince since the past 4 years of sitting hasn't been kind on the brake system. Life and health has tanken it's toll on the car and myself. That aside, it was easy to remove the clip and slip the rod off the pedal for removal. But puting the new M/C back on was another story. Having a clutch in the way was the start of the aggravation in reinstalling the rod, brake sw and clip. My big hands just were not wanting to go where they should. My bi- focals didn't help and the blood from my finger adder further frustration. Long story short: 1, Consume favorite beverage of choice ( in this case Crown Royal) 2, Remove front seat. 3, Lay something soft on floor. ( Yoga mat works good) 4, Position shop light so as not to burn forehead. 5, Lay on back under dash with legs trying to remain horizontal. ( good luck) 6, Search for the a combination of washers and the clip that constantly falls down your shirt or behind your back. 7, Swear repeatedly ( this helps after about 5 mins) 8, Install washer, switch, another washer and finally the clip.9, If you are able, remove yourself from said vehicle. ( Allow time for this, it's dependant upon age) And finally, see #1.

 

Man I feel your pain! Nothing more humbling than losing your "up close" vision and needing to see something above you where the magnification is non existant!

#7 should repeat every step of the way!

 

Yeah I hear ya.

I've found in my old age being rather nearsighted a blessing, till last year or two I haven't needed glasses to see up close. Now when under dash I can't get far enough away from work to see it.

 

Finished up the front brakes today . Flushed the tank and put fresh 94 in. Replaced the elect fuel pump(had a new one in stock for another project) and finally fired it up! I'd forgotten how good it sounded.

 

Pulled motor and trans to do shock tower mod to get ready for my 427 stroker Windsor to go in

 

Installed a C4 kickdown that I took from a 72 econoline with a 302 & c4 at P&P. A few bends, a fabricated extension, 3 good looks at the holley kickdown video clip, and a ton of squirming in and out from under the car....and I believe I have a working kickdown. I will test it tomorrow.....it will give me a good reason to floor it a bit.

 

I have the T shirt for that one as well, and had the original rod. Didn't begin to fit the stealth intake & Holley combo.

 

If you need anywhere near full throttle for the kickdown to start doing its job then you seriously missed the adjustment and point of the whole design. Depending on how much torque(ability for the lugged motor to effectively pull a taller gear) and preferred driving experience(racier rev range and downshift touchiness).. I usually prefer about 50-60% of throttle angle to get the kickdown to override the vac modulator and jack the line pressure for a quick and crisp downshift. Especially important when you're progressively leaning into the throttle and still maintaining some level of manifold vacuum at the modulator. This also allows a more aggressive ignition timing ramp by helping avoid engine lugging and detonation.

A well adjustable modulator and quicker kickdown actuation can surprise many people as to how fun an automatic can actually be when it's behind a little high rpm powerhouse. But.. I've been known set my modulators a bit too tight and unecessarily jack up line pressure so it chirps the tires with a 64th inch of throttle angle. Makes it much tougher to calmly sneak by cops sitting at stoplights watching you go through intersections though. lol

 

Bump it into neutral.

I agree on modulator adj but I too am guilty of adjusting so shifts are firmer, and hold gears as long as possible.

 

Well, I admit I dont have a clue how it actually works or where it should be set, currently the rod is set to be at full travel when the carburetor is fully opened. If it is set for full travel sooner, will it act as a stop for carb opening? I gotta look at it some more.....I also got a increasingly bad drip from the shift selector shaft, and my 2-3 shift developed a flare. I think someone modified the valve body already as there was a tag on it and it hits second very firmly when manually shifting....but third is a tird.

 

I tried that too but my car usually quits going forward which only gives them even more time to stare judgingly and listen to my often illegal exhaust systems. LOL

Actually got pulled over one time by a cop watching me at his red light after my tires loudly chirped shifting into 2nd gear. Immediately turned his lights on and cut right into traffic behind me. He didn't give me a ticket after I convinced him it was just the way the car shifted under light throttle.. just irritated him because he thought I was mocking and rebelling against his authority. Some guys want to be cops for a reason.

 

The kickdown is an override circuit for the modulator. And yes you want the trans linkage to fully stroke/actuate the kickdown valve(can't remember what it's actually called right now) but the actual adjustment for when the carb moves the kickdown rod is on the carb linkage. Big long screw on the floating carb linkage itself.

 

I got to test drive with kickdown rod in place. It is currently adjusted to be at the end of its travel when the primary is fully opened (vac secondary) and I think that = WOT. If I adjust the kickdown rod to end its travel before WOT, the carburetor will stop opening when the kickdown rod hits the end of its stroke. I dont know it this makes sense........

BUT....the 2-3 shift under full throttle is firm now, whether done manually or not. The 1-2 shift has always chirped the tires and still does. I like it better with the rod than without....that is certain. I have read many times where people decide to leave that rod off, but I do see an advantage to having it.