What is the best cable clutch conversion kit to use?

You cant use a clutch cable on a toploader. The clutch linkage disengauges by pushing the clutch frork towards the rear. With a clutch cable, the cable pull fowards. I doubt the cable is long enough to loop around.

 

Thanks for the info!
I have a T-5, its bellhousing(made for a cable), 28 oz. flywheel, diaphram Press Plate, etc. for a small block that I am planning to install. As the discussion above was tending toward clutch pedal setup for a cable, I naturally responded to that, which is my area of concern. My car is now an automatic, like Blown76Mav's and rx7351w's.

So, if any of you know, is there a difference in the years of fox body pedal boxes? Are they all the same 79 - 92, or are the 87 - 92's the best?
Thanks

 

Some early fox-body cars used a manual adjusting cable.

 

Been thinking about the T-5 switch from auto i have a 76 parts car 3 on the floor can the pedals from this car be used to do the switch or do you have to have the Fox clutch pedal would be putting in a 76.

 

Any fox mustang should work 79-93.

 

Check around first.
There is a real nice pedal assembly on eBay right now.
It will certainly be cheaper from anywhere else.
You can even take a Mustang pedal and hybrid the pedal into your auto pedal bracket.


As for clutch cables:
I have no experience with the T5 version, but can anyone tell me where the cable puts the bulk of it's load when pedal is pushed?
Does it focus the pressure on the firewall? On the pedal bracket?
That pressure is focused and great, it has to go somewhere.
The cable clutches I have seen never have a strong enough point of focus for the pressures.
I have seen them pull through firewalls many times. This is a common thing for clutch cables. The firewall cannot handle the pressure.
I have not seen one that focuses pressure on the pedal bracket, I am sure this would be a stronger option.
That is why I am asking.
I also want to point out the dangers if any of the Mav folks are using the firewall to mount any cable stresses.
Firewalls are a pain to fix and damage from focused energy is really nasty.
We had one pull through the dash on our brand X car.
Bracing and re-bracing would always fail after long, making the damage worse and worse. The car is now auto... but will be hydraulic clutch when it goes back to manual.
Dave

 

Ya know I cant tell where it focuses. I cant even figure out how it works. It seems to push the shroud and not move the cable. Screw it it works but not nearly as good as it was supposed to. I am running a T-5 and it's hard to shift fast. I will be switching to a hydrolic clutch set up since I had headder issues with the cable. It comes too close to the collector. The hydrolic kit is an easy bolt on and I can route the line wherever I want. It has a slave cylinder that mounts to the tranny to push the lever forward.

 

So you have the Ron Morris set up it pushes the shroud instead of pulling the cable.Just made me wonder how well it worked.A little slow on fast shifts.

 

Definitly slow and kinda hard to "feel". It is working and has for a long time but the hydrolic kit is the way to go. I have a friend who installed one in his early Stang and it is lightyears ahead of the cable kit in responsivness and feel. It costa around $400 if you want the kit. Another friend scavenged a brake kit from a Toyota pick up and uses it on his Maveric race car. It cost him less than $100.

http://www.autoworks.cc/65-70%20ford_hydraulic_clutch_kits.htm

 

Hey 69GT,
Tell us more about this Toyota pickup scavenging. Elaborate.
Was it the brake master, a clutch master, a clutch slave, pedals.....

Thanks, Steve

 

Ok. It's been a long time since I spoke with him. I think he got all the gear out of a late 80s Toyota pick up. It was the master and slave (clutch) and hydrolic line. You'll need real Maverick pedals. I dont know exactly how he did it but he said it was very easy. I am sorry to be so vague but I havent learned any more about it. I might go looking for him in the near future and I'll ask him exactly what he used.

 

That's enough for me to go on. I can start looking the next time I'm at a salvage. I have the maverick pedal set from a 73 mav 4dr that should bolt right into my 72 Grabber.
Thanks, Steve

 

Seems like if you welded a washer on the front and back of the firewall before putting the adjuster through it, it should last a long time. I plan on running a light pedal effort clutch to help too. (Centerforce)

 

Back to the cable system/weak firewall area:

Somewhere I saw an Aluminum billet block that bolted to the protruding flange where the cowl meets the firewall. Seems as it was threaded for a firewall adjuster too. It may have been mustang stuff. Anyone recall this?

 

That is the billet firewall bushing from ProMotion Performance in Florida.