what would you do?

Discussion in 'Drag Racing' started by steelhorse5778, Nov 1, 2010.

  1. maverick75

    maverick75 Gotta Love Mavs!

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    Trick Flow R heads are good for an all out race car. Its kinda funny how the 1.6L Honda Engine i just picked up can handle more HP than the stock 5.0 block/crank can ;) Also our cars are pretty light. You only need about 350whp to run elevens.
     
  2. olerodder

    olerodder Member

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    A lot of good advice here, and I certainly don't mean to start any argument or throw any rocks, but there are pro's and con's to which kind of stroker motor to build. As they say, "Size Matters".................but not always.
    Building a motor for a drag race car is only part of the plan and so many people build some high HP car only to find out that the chassis can't handle it, then they get all torqued out of shape because they can't hook the power or get the car to settle down, or go straight.
    My Maverick was built in the late 70's for B/SM and it weighs around 3125lbs without me in it, and back in the day it had a 302 which was required to run B/SM................but with some Boss 302 Heads. The motor was put together with loving care.............it was a crash box car and the launches were over 7000RPM and going through the traps over 7500RPM. It was doing 10.3's back in the day and the motor was used for two race seasons before the SM class was dropped. The suspension/cage/is set up with old style ladder bars..............but they were done correctly and the chassis worked/works very.......................
    So, if you want to build a 302 my suggestion would be to go with a 331ci
    motor, 3.250 stroke and use 5.4 inch rods with 2.10 journals.................you are going to have to buy a crank but RPM makes a good cast crank as long as you have it nitrided, polished, and maybe a little custom lightening, that should give you a cheap crank that will be as good as some of the high end ones on the market and will last a long time if you don't abuse it too much. Use some good Ross pistons and have them coated on the skirts. Use a FPS main support and ARP studs on the crank................a two bolt block will work as long as you have a good crank support. Then have the bores properly preped.............using forged pistons need a little extra clearance, but preping the cylinders is just as important as the clearance. Now, the cam should be a solid roller and I have seen a couple of motors built with the Isky Red Zone lifters with EZ Roller option..........cam should be around 256 duration @ .050 lift, and around 640 gross lift..............should be ground on lobe seperation of 108 and installed at 103. As for heads................I am partial to TFS R heads, but for a smaller motor like this I would use the AFR 205 Eliminator with 59cc chambers that would be great with 5cc domes on the Ross pistons. I would think around 11.5 to 12.1 would be good............and for an intake............I'm probably going to take heat for this but...........a Parker Funnel Web.
    I think the motor should be capable of 525/550HP on the motor and if you want to use NO2...............100/150shot and you should be around 700HP.
    Of course you will have have to have an MSD system, and a set of really good "true" equal length tuned headers.........................you can actually do this yourself.
    As for a race motor being a grenade..................the more work you put into making all the clearances the same, exact machine work, checking everything and then checking it again..................and not skimping on the parts you buy.......................my CHP 408 was built in 1999..........and has turned a 9.8 in 2010.............but it has billet crank and rods/Ross pistons/TS rings................and a set of Roush/Yates TF Twisted Wedge R heads...............and I am pulling it down to refresh it................hopefully most of the components are re-useable........this
    is just my best guess.....................but building a race motor that is going to last is not cheap.............neither is racing......................IMHO
     
  3. steelhorse5778

    steelhorse5778 Member

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    well its been awhile since i replied here but i was wondering how good are the pro comp 210cc heads or should i just hold out for the AFRs
     
  4. my70mav

    my70mav Member

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    heads are where the power is, AFR all the way man
     
  5. Rocket!

    Rocket! Member

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    afr's are good heads sure there are other heads out there that can make you go quicker but an all around out of the box head is afr I have 185's but I sure do wish I went with the 205 at least. well anyway I ran a 10.02 with the 185afr's and I spin my 308 to 7200 no torque like most of the cars running my number but I have amazing topend for what the car is.
     
  6. dkstuck

    dkstuck Member

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    Whatever head you go with, remember

    ALL NEW HEADS NEED DISASSEMBLED AND CLEANED BEFORE USING!
     
  7. Rocket!

    Rocket! Member

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    for real I just took my afrs out of the box made sure all runners were clear ect and just slaped them on
     
  8. bossmav

    bossmav Drag racing nut

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    Amen to that! NEVER trust a race part to guess work!! DO IT YOURSELF!
     

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