Got the rear to stop leaking and the front starts.......what the hell lol. I got rid of the bog but the rear boosters were leaking fuel.....stopped the leak and it bogs again.......then the front starts leaking. That 2k for fuel injection is starting to look like a good investment
Well tried several more things......got the demon back on with smaller jets..... Cranked the car up and gray / white smoke..... Not a ton but noticeable. That's it I'm pulling the motor and scrapping the damn thing. I'm either gonna put the roller 302 block in it or a 351.
Learn to tune. Changing parts won't ever get you where you need to be. White smoke is steam. The smoke you are looking for when tuning a carb is black/dark brown. It shouldn't even run well with fuel dripping from the boosters. That's a sign of floats being set too high or bad floats. How are you setting the floats on the Holley? Give me your step by step. SPark
No block was roller compatible till '85, if it's a E4 casting or earlier likely has the shorter lifter bores...
It was the floats...... I turn on the ign so the fuel pump comes on and adjust the float height til it dribbles out then back it off til it stops and leave it there. So now I have the holley on with 64 primary and 68 secondary with a 37 squirter and green pump cam and it finally doesn't bog...... But I am still getting very light amounts of light gray smoke.... And after shutting it off I had a hell of a time getting it started again. I'm having so many small issues with the 306 and the fact that it just isn't running good I'm very close to pulling it for a early 70s 351w and running my gt40s on that. Ive messed with this motor weekend after weekend for months now and it just havent blown my skirt up. For example: today I resolve the bog issue.....but get light gray smoke from exhaust now and developed a lifter tick after a test launch in the driveway. My dads maverick with a near stock 351w ( headers and duraspark ) will burn the tire off with stock intake and carb and my 306 with flat tops....cam....ignition....headers....gt40 heads....crane roller rockers.....etc etc etc will barely get out of its own way. At this point I assume something with the cam or cam timing is up. Anyways rant over......who wants a cheap 302 minus heads lol.
So any ideas on why I'm getting white / gray very light smoke now? I plugged off the pcv thinking that might be it but I guess I need to change it out to really tell.
If you are not loosing coolant, it's likely oil that's can appear grey if it's a small amount(lightish blue in heavier amounts)... Oil usage can be because of worn rings, valve guides or bad valve stem seals...
Bottom end only has 1000 miles so doubt it is the bottom end. Last thing done was the heads so maybe a head gasket small leak or something.
may be your rings have not sealed yet. it depends on what type of rings were used on how long and on how to brake them in. is the oil level staying in the same place or is it dropping?
wow.. apparently I missed a lot of moto-drama lately. lol You never really mentioned that this problem wasn't solved last time we talked.. but here's what I think is possibly going on. Now, you seem to be leaning the carb out and nearing a squar'ish jet spread due to two problems.. the lack of a secondary accelerator pump shot(which is nearly always a problem on lighter cars running short gearing, cams and single plane intakes).. and... too weak of a secondary spring(which is what's causing the secondaries to open too soon and leaving a lean hole.. "cutout.. hesitation". You should also keep in mind that it's never good to lean out a carb's primaries to the point that you're approaching here since it can lead to burned head gasket fire rings and even cracked rings/lands(which happen due to temp spikes and high speed detonation that can't be heard at 6,000 rpm). Also.. white smoke usually means lean outs.. or.. burning oil from worn rings.. oorrrr.. in your case.. you may have actually unseated the rings during all this tuning. The school of hard knocks teaches some of us.. myself included.. that excessive and long term fuel wash is never a good thing for proper ring seal. So.. my quick and overbearing "know it all" advice is this. Put the main jet back in that the spark plugs like for cruising and light throttle performance(btw.. a #64 main jet is almost to the point of ridiculous for a 600 cfm on this spec motor) and then nearly close off the secondaries with a stiff black spring("cutout/hesitation" should disappear completely). Then once you get the primary circuit cleaned up.. you'll start back in on the secondary side of things again. Now.. once all that's done and you've established another baseline?.. add the next weakest spring until the bog starts ocurring once more. Then.. add a less aggressive ramp on the pump cam to help stretch out the pump shot past the point of the secondaries opening up. That's about the best that you can do with this carb until you get back into a DP to cover up that hole. Hope that helps. PS. A dual plane would help eliminate this issue as well.. or at least make your tuning chores a bit easier.. even though you'll give up some rev range in the swap.
Compression checks coming tomorrow. I'll post results here. Dual plane intake is on the way as soon as the buyer for my f100 shows up lol. Going to order the edelbrock performer rpm and get myself a street avenger carb or ?????? what are the recommendations here???? That way even if I say eff it and go with a roller motor these parts still can be used so I haven't lost any money that can't be used elsewhere. I'd also be a fool if I didn't mention that I really suspect my heads are somehow the cause of my grief. Everything on the motor except the heads, intake, and carb are nearly brand new and professionally assembled. The heads were picked up second hand and I had them checked at the machine shop at the time of the new springs and retainer install but have since then found out that the machine shop I took them too is really very shady and most likely installed the springs and retainers and never even looked at the heads. Hopefully the compression readings come back good for me.
Oh and not sure if its my stock covers or not but when the engine gets up to operating temps and I play with the car a bit ( with the gas of course ) I develop a tick on my passenger side. Sounds like valve cover contact to me but not sure whey it just appears when it gets up to temp. Guess it could be a crapped out valve guide or any other thing for that matter.
Readings are in..... Engine cold Carb removed 5 turns per cylinder Readings ranged from 125-130 except cylinder 6 which pulled a 139.....its possible it got an extra crank. Wonder if my rings just aren't seated yet. Also wondering now that there are no huge hints to valve problems or a head gasket what is causing my crazy bog issue. Oh well. Anyone have any ideas?
When you put the motor together did you ever actually measure your compression ratio? I'm looking at your heads, Torker intake and cam. The cranking compression for your cylinders are even but only 130 psi. I'm thinking your heads, cam, and intake might require more compression. Mine cranks at 180 psi cold. What's your cam specs?
Not sure of cam specs. I got the assembled short block and all the parts in a package deal from a guy who couldn't afford to have it finished and picked it up from the machine shop. There was no cam card but was told it was a 486 lift anderson cam.......helpful I know lol. At this point it doesnt matter I just struck a deal for a roller 302 with ported gt40p heads......trick flow stage 1 cam.... performer rpm intake......holley 650 carb with a C4 bolted on the back of it. Going to pull this motor and trans and dig throught it all this winter and throw in a new cam and look everything over. Looks like I'm gonna be notching my shock towers so I can get a set of headers in there for the p heads. I would swap them for my non p heads on the flat tappet in the car but he had the intake and heads port matched.
