I switched to 3.40 gears last Fall or this Spring. Picked up the launch, and now I am crossing the line at about 5000 rpm. Could probably get away with 3.55's with these tires, but then, when I get a set of drag radials or slicks, I will need a set of shorter gears yet.
Yeah, I was kinda pissed at him, because you can't hear my motor on the tape at ALL. Trust me, it's not quiet by any means.
what rpm you shifting at ??prob should be around 6200-6500 ???get you a set of E/T drag rade 26" that will help the gear bet it will get into the mid-low 13s
Matt, you da man!!! You have done alot to that car in a relatively short period. You should be proud. Dan
Get those 60' times in the 1.90-2.00 and you'll be there.Like seeing a good running crash bumper car.(if you gut the front bumper you'll shave about 35lbs off the nose,might help traction a bit).
Thanks for all the feedback. I've decided (for now ) that I'm very happy with my car's performance, and I'm going to hold off on buying a posi and a set of drag radials or slicks until after the Grabber is finished. Too many other things I need to buy to get the car done to be spending money on things that can wait. Must....have....discipline.... I am shifting about 6000 rpm and crossing the traps at about 5000 with the 3.40's and 25" tires. There are still some free weight-loss things I can do this year to try to improve my ET's. I may still swap (or gut) the front bumper to cut some weight int he front after I renew the tags (stupid safety inspection ) Plus I had almost a full tank of gas, which may have aided traction somewhat, but it's still alot of extra weight. I think I have had better launches in the past, I just didn't try anything very different all night with the launch to try to improve them. If anyone has any advice on how best to launch with street tires and an open diff, feel free to post it.
If one fart pipe on the ricer was that loud ....would dual fart pipes on the Mav be twice as loud? Seriously - when I had the open diff I ran 15 psi in the right rear and 20 in the left rear. It evened things out a little. Do you have the battery mounted in the trunk? That helps a lot too. Cleaver
I was looking at the rules sheet i printed out last year, and it says if you run 13.99 or quicker, or run slicks, you need a driveshaft loop. Didn't think I was even close to needing one! I can find one, but can someone tell me how far from the tranny/diff you are supposed to mount it?
I believe you just need the front one....the one on the back of mine was added when I did the ladder bars. But I have past tech without the back one.
I believe the requirement is for the loop to be 6 inches from the front u-joint. Rear is not required. No pole vaulting allowed
Yeah, that makes sense. I am sure I've heard that before. If the back one comes loos it will just beat the floor to death under the back seats. Hmmmmm.
