I'm just throwing this into the mix for those needing help removing the oil pan. I have a 1973 Maverick 302 that I am installing a HV oil pump on. I found out that raising the engine is not required in order to remove the oil pan. I found that by moving the starter over to get to the pan bolts is required. Remove the starter bolt closest to the pan and loosen the other starter bolt just enough to move the starter over to get a socket on the 2 pan bolts. The stabilizer bar will need to be unfastened at one end and the insulators removed from the frame in order to swing the stabilizer bar out of the way. The pan then slides forward and out. I was able to remove the oil pump and screen while the pan was dropped down in the front. I'm not sure if the pan will come out without removing the oil pump and screen first. Didn't go that route.
So why did you need a HV pump??? With stock bearing clearances they sap HP and mostly remain in bypass mode till the engine oil is fully warmed...
You can get it out with the pump on. I get mine off mostly the same way, I loosen the sway bar from the frame but leave the links connected but remove the belly bar. I was also able to get mine out with the starter in place.
HV oil pump. I figured I'd go ahead and install an HV oil pump since the cost was just a few bucks more. Everyone I talked to said It wouldn't hurt to have the HV pump. As far as the moving of the starter, I couldn't get the socket on the bolts without moving the starter over a fraction. Really not that big of a deal. just a little easier for me. I found out that the valve stem guide seals were gone as the remains of them were in the bottom of the oil pan, In pieces and hard as plastic. I knew I needed them replaced because of the big cloud of smoke I got when first cranking it up. I just didn't realize how gone they were until removing the pan. Kinda had the screen clogged up too. I'll be working on that today. Gotta locate or devise a valve spring compressor first.
You might be able to rent an in-vehicle spring compressor. My dad and I just made one a couple weeks ago for a Chevy 7.4L out of some flat steel. Kinda like this one: http://www.homemadetools.net/valve-spring-compressor-15
Not only is a HV oil pump totally unnecessary in a 302, but will suck a stock oil pan sump dry. Really not a good idea.
all my engines had stock style oil pumps...250...302...306...347...396 and LSX... my understanding, only full race engines with their bearing clearances need HV pumps.
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One more point about HV pumps. I used to run an HV pump in my Comet's stock bearing clearance 351W until it began twisting the OEM pump rods. I had to go to a heavy duty rod and eventually went back to a stock pump. I've been running with a stock pump in my now 302 ever since.
As a side note, switch the stock oil pickup to a Mellings with a full screen. The stock pickup has a bypass feature that allows little chunks (like old dried up valve seals) to get in and jam the pump. Twice. Not fun.
I have been driving for 8+ yrs w/ hi/vol pump w/ no ill effects to date. The car was bought w/ the setup on recent engine rebuild. The car is used only for road-use/cruising, runs pressure 60-70 lbs at cruising speeds. I don't know why PO installed hi-vol pump, but, as long as it don't give any issues, leaving it alone. If it need be replaced, reg. vol wud be order of the day. I guess/assume the PO installed what they had. Didn't realize this thread was 4yrs old,
I didn't realize it was 4 years old until you noted it. Looks like homemadetools resurrected the thread. My racing may have something to do with my twisting the oil pump rod.
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