I'm starting to second guess if I have the right intake gaskets for my 302. The heads are e7 and I'm using a carb. The set I have are felpro #1250 and what is confusing me is, do I cover the center with the supplied block off insert ? or should I just buy a set for a early 302 ? say 1974 302 gaskets... I'm worried that I may block a water jacket with the wrong one. Also the two ends of the gasket are shaped wrong, Like a L do I just cut out the gasket to fit ? The engine is a 95 roller out of a f-150 that was originally a efi set up...
I'm not positive here.. but I believe the 1250's are modeled after the 351W style water jackets. I know that some other.. including myself have used them without isse on the other 302 heads but may have had to modify them in some way and/or add liberal amounts of silicone too. Here's an "google images" link to see the various designs available. Been far too long so don't ask me which head has which port but AFAIK.. the real early stuff was small.. later stuff was large.. and who the hell knows what Ford did in between. Maybe ask baddad or Krazy Comet? https://www.google.com/search?q=int...hGcOkyQGP2oCYAg&ved=0CFIQ7Ak&biw=1366&bih=620 PS. I ALWAYS block off my smog crossovers because these manifolds run hot enough on their own as it is. No need to heat the plenum. Although.. extremely cold climates will see improved fuel mileage from a heated manifold. Generally speaking.. you can also jet up slightly and run a bit more aggressive timing lead with a cooler running intake as well. Hope that starts you on your way to avoiding issues down the road.
Is the smog cross overs the the funny shaped ports in the middle of the head ? I have a extra little gasket that fits inside the intake gasket that will block it off... As you can tell from the questions, I have never installed a intake before...lol
Yep. That's what some of the extra money you spent on that particular gasket went towards. Use them if you won't create potential sealing issues at the water ports/ends of the manifold.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-5834/applications/ I'm thinking this is the gasket I need (not so much the brand,but style)
What you are trying to do is block the heat crossover, fine for a race engine but you'll likely have drivability issues in cold weather without it functioning(then in FL may not be that big of issue)... Every engine since the 30s has had some type of internal system to heat the intake for better fuel distribution, especially in cold weather...
The 1250 is the small port performance gasket, 1262 is the large port big brother. In the water port area at each end of the gasket, it may, or may not, align with the water ports in the head. I always put the gasket against the head and use an exacto knife to cut the extra material away from the water holes at the front and rear of the head so no gasket is in the open water flow areas. After cutting the gasket in the water port hole (usually a little "L" shaped piece is removed) I fill the area of head exposed within the water hole area with silicone for a good water seal since it gets close to the edge on some intakes. Doesn't take a lot if silicone, just enough to build the missing gasket area. Put the little metal blanks in for the heat crossover and hold them in place with a dab of silicone if needed while assembling the intake to the heads. It will make warmup a little slower but overall it will drive better without the heat under the carb. SPark
If you're installing an aluminum intake, then yes, by all means block off the exhaust cross over to avoid the gasses from corroding the intake internally. You're in Florida, you do not need the heat. I would block it off regardless of where I was. It's not like you're going to use it as a daily driver in 99% of the case.
Good info,thanks .. the gaskets I put on lined up pretty good.. I'm going to pull the intake (weand stelth) and make sure the cross over is blocked and everything is right.. what I didn't do was use rtv around the four water ports..
The other "water in the oil of my rebuilt engine" thread got me thinking enough to search for any other pitfalls. Worthwhile reading to be damned sure that gasket seals that particular manifold well enough. http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all...-gasket-1250-1262-sealing-problem-w-pics.html Otherwise.. if there's sufficient manifold mating surface to seal properly?.. it looks as if you just cut out the gaskets additional 351w bolt hole material located in the 302's water port before adding some silicone. I'd also recommend an occasional re-torque as those gaskets are notorious for letting go with age and vibration. Which is why the steel core gaskets can be better in the long run.
I've never installed a intake before, I used the gasket that came in the box of gaskets the engine builder supplied it seamed to have a better fit.. I used rtv on the two ends not the cork, the felpro set just doesn't fit well enough to the head.. I'm going to tear it back down because I didn't use any sealer around the water ports.. I will look at how the gasket compressed it should tell me if I might have a problem.. This engine is on a stand so no water has passed through it yet... Oh and I hear some say yes block the center heat port if you have an aluminum intake (yes it's aluminum) others say I need it for drivability... In Florida it gets pretty warm, but am I right in thinking the engine will run at it's own set temp based on what t-stat I use ? I want to do the right thing and I know alternately it's up to me to decide witch way will work better.. It's just a driver no racing, but I do want to drive it as much as possible...
Block the heat crossover. It only aids cold driveability and you don't need it in Florida. It has nothing to do with engine heat control, it's more of a pre-heat for fuel so it atomizes better when cold. Block it. SPark
OK here is what I did... I pulled and cleaned the intake and block surfaces, added a skim coat of rtv around the four water ports installed the gaskets and trimmed to fit the four water ports. Then I put a skim coat of rtv on top of the gasket around water ports, put a skim coat of rtv on front and back of intake and block. A 1/4 inch bead of rtv on front and back of block, installed intake using four long carb studs as a guide. Put a dab of thread sealer on all the bolts then torqued them to 20 foot pounds using a criss cross patteren... I hope its right, I will know soon... Oh and I went ahead and blocked off the heat risers, I think the Florida weather and engine heat will be enough...
