Intake gaskets ?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by mavgrab302, Apr 12, 2014.

  1. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

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    Sounds good, but you don't need thread sealer on the bolts. None of them penetrate the water jackets.
     
  2. mavgrab302

    mavgrab302 MCCI Florida State Rep

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    I thought I was doing it for oil seepage...lol
     
  3. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    Yep.. good call because you are. Some in the middle do make it through to the valley and will weep over time if not properly sealed. Best practice is to put a dab of silicone under the bolt heads too as your dropping them all the way down to thread engagement.

    Make sure to check and re-torque as necessary about once a year. The more aluminum that's involved(intake and heads).. the greater the need to consider it basic maintenance. (y)
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  4. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Did you repeat the sequence until the gaskets settled ? If you didn't, do so now. Sometimes it takes a half dozen or so rounds til the gaskets compress fully.
     
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  5. mavgrab302

    mavgrab302 MCCI Florida State Rep

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    I torqued them twice, I will check them again today...
     
  6. Marthas Comet

    Marthas Comet Member

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    You did good!!!
     
  7. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    I was going to put this off a bit, but I started to think "what if" pieces of sealer (pic) break off and go downstream? Intake gaskets are in my near future and I will be reading this thread again just before it. WP_20170531_17_49_12_Pro.jpg
     
  8. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    As long as sealant isn't attached to a chunk of metal there won't be any harm... That said I don't use any sealant on intake ports, just the water ports and then only a light skim coat...
     
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  9. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

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    The only sealant I would ever use on intake ports is Gaskacinch. Never RTV (which is not compatible with gasoline anyway). Water jackets get some RTV.
     
  10. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    As usual, these guys are right on target. I would however caution against using those cheap stamped carb gaskets, same goes for intake gaskets too, without a good non-rtv based sealer. Can be a mess to clean up later but will stop the inevitable weeping during cold starts, evidenced by the fluid/carbon tracking/witness marks during later removal. Also helps with fastener load retention since things wiggle around less during contraction expansion cycles.
     
  11. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    I tore it down and cleaned the intake (what a mess), re-assembled using Larry's WP_20170603_22_26_49_Pro.jpg recommendation. While I was in there, I used a mirror to id the cylinder heads (C8OE 2V) and noted the inside of the engine was spotless, and all the valve springs were shimmed with a .060 shim. All stock, but all in good looking shape. The intake ports (Torker 289) look like a good match for a stock heads. It will be ready to drive in a couple weeks.
     
  12. mavgrab302

    mavgrab302 MCCI Florida State Rep

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    my Intake is still sealed and engine is running great 3 years later. I will be doing it all again on my old engine, I'm prepping it with 289 heads with screw in studs and roller rockers. going to swap in a new cam while I have it on the stand. This along with a TCI c4 will go in my 72 Sprint...
     
  13. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    What cam are you going to use? are your heads ported and/or milled? I would like to know how it turns out.
     

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