Am at the end of my rope with this amp problem

Discussion in 'Audio' started by doncomfort, Apr 17, 2014.

  1. doncomfort

    doncomfort MCCI Membership Director

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    Last year my amp quit. The protect light was on, would slowly fade, brief blip of the clip light, protect light came back on. Swapped amp with my Son's, he said it worked when he took it out. Hooked it up, power light comes on when the head unit is turned on but no sound. I replace my head unit and rca cables, same thing, no sound. I bought a new amp, hooked it up, still no sound! The amp powers up with the head unit, speakers are good ( I hooked them up with 6x9s), what is going on here? :mad:
     
  2. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    Check the main power supply line for corrosion, it really sounds like you aren't getting the required voltage to run everything. I've done this more times than I care to recall when I was young and dumb and helping friends hook up stereos. You can have enough power to power everything up, but no sound comes out because there's not enough power to drive sound.

    My favorite story of failing to install a stereo system was not realizing my friend was trying to hook up home stereo crap in his car... you can imagine our embarrassment (we were like 19) when his neighbor (amateur HAM enthusiast) came over and laughed at us. Suffice it to say, I still suck at installing car stereo systems.

    You just have a power supply issue, I'm almost positive.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  3. blugene

    blugene Senior member Supporting Member

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    I have had several amps that have a direct power (battery +) and a switched power (from head unit)..
     
  4. doncomfort

    doncomfort MCCI Membership Director

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    Thanks MSmith.....Gene,thats how my amp is. Heavy guage 30amp fused line from battery to amp. Remote wire from head unit. I checked voltage at the amp several weeks ago and had battery voltage but I couldnt find my meter tonight to check. I will check that wire and connection tomorrow. Thanks Guys, I feel better.
     
  5. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    Check your grounds too, you could easily get a meter to show battery voltage on the supply, but once it's in the circuit unless you are cutting into the circuit to check the voltage draw... hat pin soldered to a meter lead is my favorite method, then cover over your prick hole with liquid electrical tape.

    Anyway, good luck, I hate chasing these problems.
     
  6. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I think it's a power supply issue, also. The likelihood of 3 amps being defective is highly unlikely. Check ur high current supply for poor connection, possible break under insulation, corrosion. I assume ur using something in the order of 6ga or so w/ the 30a rated amp? Where is the amp located in relation to the batt? Used same ga wire for ground as supply? I have my amp under the passenger seat supplied by 4ga wire and 60a fuse. Never any issues.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  7. doncomfort

    doncomfort MCCI Membership Director

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    I would say the power supply and ground wires are 6g. They were installed about 10+ years ago. The amp is in the trunk in a custom made cubby in the right quarter panel. The ground wire is grounded to the body at the trunk latch.
     
  8. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    IMO, make this easy on yourself and run new wires. Also, 30amps may not be enough anymore.

    Can you give the specs on your new equipment so we can total up the maximum spike draw requirements.
     
  9. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    Mojo is right one the money with using heavy cables for both supply and ground. I have 4ga cables on my Falcon and it's only a 750-800 amp.
     
  10. blugene

    blugene Senior member Supporting Member

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    So you might make sure you have a ground strap to the body from the battery or from engine to body.
     
  11. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    6ga cables would be fine for a 16ft run imo. Unless his amp is going over 1500W. I'm more concerned with the 30amp fuse, and 10 year old wires running from battery to trunk.

    Personally I try not to use bigger wires than necessary in my audio because they also let through extra noise I have to filter out to keep the sound crisp. So, sure 4ga cables get 'er done, but getting the line conditioned right is a PITA if you care about that.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  12. doncomfort

    doncomfort MCCI Membership Director

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    So much good advice. I would say it is time to replace to replace those wires. Everything else has been replaced, why not. I dont have the new amp specs in front of me. Dont laugh, its a Sony Xplode 1100 watt amp. I believe its 350w @4 ohms 2 channel. Its powering a pair of 10" Infinity subs.

    My cars ground goes from the battery to the alternator bracket. Getting a cable that grounds to the body and the the motor is on my list of things I need.
     
  13. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I wud advise to replace the 10yr old wire in the trunk w/ new wire and 60amp fuse. Make it easy on yourself and eliminate the possibility of poor wire. You have spent a lot of time and money for the pleasure of enjoying the car; no need to cut corners at this point in the game. Im wondering if that old wire is running under the car or in pass comp? If it's under the car it most likely has corrosion. I've had the experience running pwr supply under my amateur radio mobile gear and had the same issue -corrosion in the cable. I run all cables in the vechicle now. Replace it and enjoy that sound sys.
     
  14. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Read the requirements in the instructions for the amp> Your setup as is, is not capable of powering 2 "10subs w/ old wire of to small a gauge. Also, I think the fuse protection should be increased at least to 60amps depending on the gauge of wire u will be installing. JMO
     
  15. doncomfort

    doncomfort MCCI Membership Director

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    Will do, Thanks Everett
     

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