The two rods I received with my new master brake cylinder are both tooooo long. Can anyone tell be what the proper length should be. I saw where someone in here shortened theirs and converted it to an adjustable variety. I plan on try this on mine.
First time I had that problem I cut some out of the rod and welded it back together. Next time I just put a 3/8" spacer between the master cylinder and firewall.
1.) U made spacer - what material used? 2.) Did that work better than the cut off rod? I am taking my master cyl off soon to do some cosmetics on the firewall and some other improvements. I have an adj. rod, been hanging on my wall over 2yrs; intend to put it on if I can get the clip off the old rod. If that don't work out; I will go to a thicker spacer- there is a spacer on the car now.
You don't mention if it is drum brake or disc brake master cylinder. The drum brake M/C has the shortest rod, which is what I use. I don't know the exact length but I'm sure someone here can tell you. An adjustable push-rod as previously mentioned may be the way to go.
I used two steel donuts at the MC mounting ears. I imagine just about anything would work, aluminum, wood, plastic. They don't have any load on them. The studs that used to hold the MC weren't long enough with the added spacers so I removed them and now have longer grade 8 bolts that install from the engine compartment side. I did the spacer thing because I already had the new MC installed and the brakes bled and then realized/remembered the supplied push rod was too long. Didn't want to disassemble everything to cut and weld the new rod. I like the spacer route because it's easy to dial in the pedal height. I checked out the adjustable rods, I thought the price was ridiculous for what it does.
Thanks for the reply Barry! I agree on the adj. rods being a little pricey; I gess that's the price I paid for being a little lazy. And I wasn't to confident on welding that rod. I will use the rod if I can get the old rod out. I am wondering if all the Ford rods are the same size on the MC end?
I wouldn't bother cutting and welding a push-rod. If you're not going to get the adjustable rod, use a rod from a drum-brake master cylinder. Removing the rod is not all that hard, but the retaining clip will get broken in the process and need to be replaced. You can put a pickle-fork or a large "Crescent" style wrench around the eyelet, and hit it with a hammer (best to put the M/C in a vice). The force will break the retaining clip and the rod will pop out. Get a new clip and pop the rid into the Disc-brake master cylinder.
I wasn't aware a M/C clip was sold w/o the MC. Also, I assume (all the rods) are the same dimensions on the ball end? Hammering on the cast cylinder base subjects it to cracking? Never done this b4 - reason I am asking!
You're not going to hit the master cylinder. You're going to hit the pickle-fork or large adjustable wrench with the hammer.