That is pretty much the case! The instructions included w/ the kit leaves much to be desired " pretty much non-existent." A lot of the things/questions you may have, have to call them to hopefully get an answer. Only install instructions I used was mostly from some of the Stang online magazines. There was a member here who I conferred "marsko125" who is the only one I know who did a Maverick. He seems to be satisfied w/ his setup. He did not use the pump from the kit. Don't see much of him anymore.
Thanks for the link, interesting/informative. I believe in my case it's best to go back to what was working for me B4. If I do the shim thing I still may have a tracking issue? I cud deal w/ the centering issue - not the tracking issue. The idea of adding that much caster making steering stiffer -- is not appealing either. Don't think at this point in life I want to do a whole lot of experimenting or under car work. Looks like this setup will be on Ebay sometime in the not to distant future. Luckily, I have all the parts cept the hoses -- should have kept, if for no more than the ends.
Well Everett I'm doing the 'xperimenting for you(and myself of course)... I'd already decided to stick a couple shims in each side on mine and had them on hand so been under the car all afternoon getting the camber back close to spec and resetting the toe... I got happy with it a couple weeks a go and over shot my LCA marks plus any change effects toe... Gonna take it out for a trial run when traffic settles a bit...
What is your purpose for the xperiment? What do you want to accomplish? You have the means to check alignment settings? The folks that did my last alignment wonders why the conversion supposedly needs so much more caster, when, basic change was steering box. Using all other stock components for the most part. I can't answer it, but it is a good question.
Everett.....I think you need to look into this more. With as many people over the years that have installed this set-up on various cars....I think something has to be amiss with your set-up. Don't give up on it yet.
Yes I can set toe(exact), camber(close), and SWAG(scientific wild ass guess) the caster... My purpose is to be sure it has enough adjustment leeway that when I take it to the shop it can be aligned with extra caster which improves handling with modern radial tires(has all new front suspension, brakes and steering, yet to be aligned)... I know a guy that will set it to my specs, just want to be sure it's possible... Currently it has a bit of positive camber on driver side and approx same amount of negative on passenger, so has a very slight pull to right... With the shims in the UCA high speed stability is now good, unlike first outing after reassembly, it's tracking nicely... I'll set the camber to match on both sides, should improve a bit more...
I did this in my mav dont use the adapter get the manual center link and to shorten the column all you need to do is take the column out hold it up side down steering wheel down pull out the part that the rag joint bolts to then hold column in one hand where the column is supposed to collapse and with a BFH smack the bottom of column and measure where the bolt holes are for the column bolts to the dash inside and that's how far you have to smack it in
I think you have a point. I am going to try "Toms" advice and add some shims to the uca's. I don't understand why the vendor does not supply shims w/ the kit, they must know this will most likely be necessary. I have lost more than a little bit of sleep over this, but, since I can still use the car to some extent it's worth a try. What Borg seems not taking into account is ... everyone they sell this stuff to does not have a degree in suspension theory ... and at least some basic/universal instructions would save some customers a lot of grief and them a lot of phone time. I intend to bring it ot their attention. Thanks for the inspiration plug Craig ... I need it!
How many shims did you use and what thickness? I have seen cars w/ the shiny new shims in the control arms but didn't think about what effect they had on alignment. I really appreciate your input/assistance on this issue Tom. Going to keep at it since I really don't want to replace all the hoses and plumbing back on the car at this point. Frustration level was rising by the day on this project ... going to chill a bit and try to work it out.
I believe the shims are 1/8" --- but anything moved even slightly will effect the toe in, so alignment would still be off spec... To reset use a tape to measure distance between center tire treads before starting... When adjusting, must be measured at exact height each time... Adj each tie rod coupler a equal amount to preserve steering wheel centering... To set toe, I use a 1940s portable Bear alignment board(affectionately called "Ouija Board") that indicates setting when car is driven across it... BTW this is shim kit I used... http://www.ebay.com/itm/151466980141?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
ive installed this conversion on several cars at my shop. none have been mavericks, but the concept is the same. none have had the problems you indicate. i really suspect the box or the power steering pump is defective. the first conversion i did was not adjusted correctly from borgenson. it was really loose, more than the the crazy loose stock assist system. i talked to them and they were shocked it got through their quality control system. they had me adjust it and it worked great. ive have not had to increase caster to get it to return to center. i do like to increase the caster in these cars just to improve steering feel and performance.
Thanks for your input Bryant! I am going to contact them nx week and see what they have to say. I've had to return the ps pump for making noise. I have read on some of the Stang sites where they had to increase caster. Also, had a link in this thread abt adding shims to the UCA to get caster to abt +4deg. Not only does it not return to center w/o help, it requires a lot more steering effort than the OE and quite-a-bit more than my DD 2007 & 2014. I'm missing a lot of the season trying to figure out these issues. I have to wonder about the QC in their operation. Lastly , car wanders way to much for me to go any distance. I've had it aligned twice w/o satisfaction. What have u experienced in this regard. What do your customers think of this conversion?
they love it. do you have any play in the steering column shaft before the pitman arm starts to move? thats what the first box i did had wrong with it. i wonder if your first noisy pump put metal shavings in the steering box?
1. Did any of those cars have pwr steer B4 going to Borg? 2. I will have to check the column to pit arm to see if I have play. 3. They did not mention any shavings when I called to check on return shipment. I asked them what they found. They said they did not find any noise source --- which is why I returned it. They replaced it, unit on the car now is quiet.
yes they have all already been factory power steering and reused the stock power steering pump. a noisy pump can be caused from air in the system or a bad rebuild. hard to say why your first pump was noisy. with performance power steering systems its recommended to put a filter in return line from the steering gear to keep metal from getting into the pump and causing damage. a transmission line filter works great for this. also with performance systems a cooler is put in the return line also.
