Went from this, the day I bought my Maverick: to this from a junkyard: To this after machine shop and paint: And then the test fit: Now we have the correct headers and we are on to solving issues with pulleys.
Here are some of the parts for my new build. Crank is supposed to be in Tuesday, then it's off to a buddy's shop for balancing. Innovators West Balancer Scat Forged H-Beam 6.20 Rods Mahle Forged/Coated Pistons. Piston/Rod combo should net 13.5 CR with my current heads.
I rarely get jealous... but that^ balancer makes me feel pretty damn green! Always wanted one since I saw it on a badass ultra high rpm yates headed street car. Owner said it was worth every penny.. 8,800 rpm shifts and it was smooootthhh as silk. Got my hands full of parts now but pockets are near penniless with this project. Maybe for the next build. Maxx.. your car should be in the garage section so we can get more detail and drool over the engine combo.
Thanks...I might put some pics of it in there as I do this new build. It's going to be a 421 stroker (4.040 bore, 4.100 stroke). Forged 4.100 crank, with the above internals. For now, I'm just swapping my current AFR heads and roller cam into it until I save a couple of more pennies (ie...I have a sizeable yearly contribution I get to send to the IRS that is due soon). Once I get that behind me, I'm looking at either the AFR 225's or the TFS Highports. I'm leaning towards the AFR's because I've never had any issues out of the ones I have now, and they've been awesome. I have some buddies who are convinced I need the Highports though. We'll see. The Highports look a lot better when they're spending my money instead of theirs lol. And of course, that'll mean a new roller cam to take advantage of the heads, and I might as well put in new roller lifters while I have it down. At that point, pushrods will need to be either longer or shorter by a few hundreths also. And how can we forget a bigger carb to feed the little monster? It's a never ending cycle lol. Most of the folks I've talked to also think my factory 351 block will be good for a bit...but I'll swap to either a Man O War, or Dart at some point. When I do that, I'll have to get a different crank because the aftermarket blocks are all Cleveland sized mains instead of the larger Windsor size. I'll more than likely go with another Man O War, as I really liked the 8.2 block I had before. I apparently suffer from a mental disorder, because I obviously can't stand to just have extra money sitting around in a savings account...
Maxx Levell,If you are going to spend that kind of money,just to ck to see what you can get call Jim Stugart out of Milton Pa.He is on the internet,builds engs. for some of the really fast Fords in the Pro Stick class.He goes down to Charlotte NC all the time & gets the sprint cars Yates heads.He might cut you a deal on a set & then you can really get in the BIG BOYS club.He has several Mustangs in that class w/ 377 ci engs running 8 flat to 8.50,imagine what those hds could do on your eng.
Thanks Dan, I'll look him up when I get to that point. Couldn't hurt to talk to him. Right now, I'm going to have my hands full trying to just get this thing ready for this season with what I have right now. As far as the BIG BOYS club, about as close as I'll get to those guys is hanging on the fence watching them while waiting for my class to be called lol. Mine is pretty much a bracket car, with a few heads up and index class races thrown in the mix here and there.
A true realist that's content to be a realist.. smart man. lol If you ever wanted to get into the retired Nascar stuff like those Yates heads down the road.. there's tons of it available used. Even Roush has a used section on their website. At one time I had planned on trying to live in the stratosphere myself with those heads.. but the valvetrain and shaft rockers are just on a whole different level than roller rockers and a girdle. So, I came back down to earth and settled on the Kasse P38's so I can get by without the shaft setup till later on when I really want to turn up the wick.
Hey guys,I`m with ya,but it is nice to dream as I am building my car on the pay as you go system because at 60 just not willing to have a lot of debt.I want a stick car badly but a $3000 c-4 is a long ways from a $10,000 manual set up which is what you have to have to get it to hold up.However,even when I get my car running if there is a stick race close enough to me to go then I will race my car there so I can watch them race also.I am amazed at how much power you get out of the Yates,& if you see them bare they are the ugliest things you`ve ever seen for hds,weird combustion chambers.
Yep, those D3's are power making beasts BUT, as you point out, the valve train is unique (offset rockers etc.). The only way I would do it is buy the whole top of a cup motor from Roush Yates, rather than trying to piece it together. Another option would be to go to a CNC ported set of CHI 3V's. Kaase made some sick power with those things. I still believe the Cleveland architecture will make more power than a Windsor on an all out motor. You just have to suck it up when it comes to the $$$ (easy to say, huh?).
Oh, I agree. I'm just assuming I'm not going to have any more success in picking lottery numbers than I have in the past . Now, if that were to somehow change, then saddle up! And I'm all about the pay as you go method of car building lol. I don't ever get anything for the car that I don't pay for outright. If I don't have money put back for it, I just wait until I do. I've seen guys at the track who put high dollar car stuff on credit cards, and take out loans against stuff, and I just shake my head. It's bitten a lot of them over the years. My Dad taught me years ago that shoe polish is cheaper than race parts! If it doesn't run what you think it should...change that dial and get it to the lanes. Don't get me wrong...I like going fast, and I always want to go as fast as I can afford to go...but I accepted long ago that I'm probably never going to be the fastest guy on the property. I've been fortunate enough to go my fair share of rounds over the years, and if I pull to the front of the staging lanes as soon as they call our class...the fastest guy on the property usually isn't making a beeline towards the lanes to run me , and I get plenty of satisfaction from that.
in the OEM stuff.. for sure. But Cleveland's still have their faults(oiling for one) and increased power potential mainly(pun intended) because of the crankshafts main diameter differences between the two. Entry-medium level stuff gives you choices but IIRC all the bigger dollar aftermarket stuff utilizes the Cleveland's main sizing nowadays. The way that it was explained to me by a pro builder long ago(and after learning more it appears to be universally accepted as a major consideration for ultimate crank strength) was that the Windsor crank is generally better for bigger strokers due to the reduced offset of the pin from the main vs the Cleveland stuff. The overlap between the diameters of the crankpin and the main journal(can't seem to recollect the technical term for this overlap) depends on the length of the stroke(crank-throw). A long-stroke engine has very little overlap, requiring thicker web sections, and a short-stroke engine has considerable overlap which strengthens the shaft. The Cleveland is for rpm and the Windsor is for.. uhh.. less rpm. lol
I should have been more specific as I was referring to the head design vs. the Cleveland engine as a whole, which I will agree, had some major issues. I was going to build a 347 8.2" street motor with the CHI 185 Cleveland heads, but ended up with a set of TFS TW 190 CNC 11R's due to a good deal. Sadly, all of my Clevelands went the way of my youth.
As usual Rob is right,those 377ci Yates headed cleveland main size mtrs are not 6000rpm torque monsters,they are violent high rpm screamers,& boy are they fun to watch,just like putting a rock in a sling shot.
Imagine seeing one at almost 9,000 rpm running on the STREET between brick buildings! Run and done.. then get the hell away from there before the sheriffs show up. There is no way to build a sleeper with those heads because of the unique exhaust sound. Although I'm sure some may have tried on occasion.
