Woo Hoo! UPS guy just dropped off the new crank! I'll get some better pics later...I'm not taking this thing out of its packaging in my office lol. Now I need to mock up a new piston/rod, drop this in place temporarily, and check for rod bolt clearance on the block before I get everything sent to the machine shop for balancing. Things are starting to come together a little...
The pistons you have are very light which is good,however those H beams are heavy.Hopefully,they will not have to add to much heavy metal to the crank,which will cause your cost to go up quite a bit.That is why I kept looking around until I found the K-1 rods I have that only weigh 507 grams.I am also going to use the Mahle piston,at 421 grams,& crossing my fingers that they will not need to use any heavy metal.The scat forged middle weight crank at 54 lbs is the one I am going to buy.One thing I realized is that some of the chevy boys are running LS & 350 small blks that weigh as little 42lbs on the crank.You need to be as light as possible down there to run with them,but what you have going for you is that you are going to make more torque than they are.Now you will just have to stick that power to the ground,hope you have great luck with your build & put everyone of them on the trailer that you can when you start racing again.
Nice! My wife and kids call our UPS/Fedex/USPS guys "Dad's Santa's". "Dad!!.. Santa's here again". lol Now's the time to make sure you don't forget to check that everything mic's out really well and also don't forget to check your thrust clearance too. If anything at all doesn't spec out, send it back for a replacement and make damned sure they foot the bill. If the cheeks are out too far you're screwed right at the last minute when finally figure it out as it's going together. Mockup, mockup, mockup, measure, measure, measure... you can rarely measure too much or ever have too many mockups when there's this kind of money and power involved.
And Dan's got some valid points in his above reply.. but let's just call all that extra steel.."MOMENTUM" as you leave the line and during shifts.
New alternator installed, water pump finally came in and we got it installed, pulleys refinished and installed, headers "adjusted" and installed.
ahhh.. Rhoads lifters.. that brings back some memories. I think I may even still have a new set tucked away from an unfinished build. lol
Yeah I noticed that as I was parts hunting in the last few years they have several different styles available these days. One(V-max?) has the ability to adjust the bleed down rate by the preload used during setup. Was/am still tempted to use the roller versions if I decide to go to a hydro roller setup rather than the custom ground solid flat setup I've had tucked away for my old 289 hi-po headed combo. But most likely go to a reduced travel race style hydro roller if budget(whatever might be left of it at that point) permits. Absolutely love the Comp Cams Extreme Energy series lobes but have been liking the look of Lunati's newer bootlegger series cams too. Probably a no-go this time around but I really despise leaving power on the table and may have to sell a kidney to make it happen when the time comes. Yeah.. that is one of the things that I never liked about them either but it obviously signifies they're actually working to bleed off the duration and lift. Roundy round guys running in the lift/vacuum rule categories still use truckloads of them these days. Today's hydro flat lifter designs are better than they used to be when I ran that kind of stuff(ceramic check balls, reduced travel, and all the rest of the rpm raising tricks).. but once you go to a solid lifter setup the power tap opens up in the higher rev ranges and they're actually not all that much louder once you've gotten used to the Rhoads incessant ticking sound. My buddies used to tease me about running them, said they were a "waste of time" and that I was "bleeding off power potential when I just needed more gear".. and I usually told them that I "was working my way down the cam chart and using them as a primer to get used to the solid lifters clatter". lol They do work as intended and can help to pick up lazy oversized ports(such as the Clevelands). To be honest.. I'm more about the newer extreme ramp acceleration designs that work best with today's cylinder head tech. Especially if they've been ported even decently. Tough to get too much air and fuel in too quickly into that type of more well developed powerplant if you know what I mean.
Sorry I was not more on topic, here is a little more about my motor: 99 Explorer roller 5.0 bored .030 , all new bearings, rings, brass freeze plugs, stock Explorer cam, Ford Racing high volume oil pump, chrome front sump oil pan GT40P heads rebuilt with Alex's beehive springs all seats and valves ground, new seals Edelbrock performer aluminum intake Edelbrock 500 cfm 4 BBL Edelbrock satin black air cleaner Edelbrock Racing aluminum satin black valve covers Ford Racing timing cover Ford Racing high volume water pump Ford Racing oil dipstick Hedman headers HEI 65KV distributor Accel Racing 8mm plug wires with ceramic boots 94 F150 accessory brackets with complete serpentine pulley system, power steering pump, and harmonic balancer.
Nice. I can't wait to actually include a picture to go along with my parts list! lol Here's my bryant billet nascar crank so far. Not quite finished yet but I've held up on it for now due to the possibility(high probability) of going back to some of the stock parts. Also afraid I might break something, maybe even the block itself, and preclude its use in my aluminum block later on down the road. Plus, I'm not too happy about my Probe pistons 1.2/1.5/3mm ring pack requirement costing me $340 bucks either.
