Manual Brake Pushrod issue

Just to update you guys, I got an adjustable SSBC brake pushrod (Part #A1726) and will try it out over the weekend. I'll let you all know how it goes.

 

I couldn't get the old rod out of my master cylinder without removing the master and puting it in a vise , then used vice grips on the rod and hit it out with a hammer , then bench bleed , then put mc back on and bleed complete system , I also used locktite (blue) on rod jam nut , didn't want it to com loose and fall off . I thought it would be a quick job , it would have if I could have gotten the rod out while it was in the car , maybe you will have better luck .

 

Yeah, you cannot remove the rod with the M/C installed on the car unless the retainer clip is broken (and hopefully it's not, 'cuz that would be dangerous). It's pretty easy to remove and reinstall though. Having the right length of push-rod will completely solve the problem, so it's totally worth the trouble. Make sure you install a new retainer clip with the new push-rod.

 

I popped the original rod out of the old MC and installed it in the new one.

 

Did it have the steel clip on the end?

 

That's what I did on mine.

 

Yes, they both had the steel clip. I used the new steel clip on the old rod and installed it in the new MC. By using the original rod, pedal height never changed.

 

The new rod has what appears to be a clip on the end, about 1/4 inch from the round point. Is this the retainer clip? I want to be absolutely sure (I plan to tackle this first thing in the morning, but I'd prefer to do it right. )

I know I'll have to pull the master (I'd have to do so in any case, since the spacer idea would require that, too,) so that's no big deal.

 

Yes that's the clip , once you pop it in you can't get it back out without breaking the clip, compare the original rod to the adjustable one and shorten it , test fit to see if pedal is where you want it if not keep adjusting , then once it's good make sure to lock tite and tighten jam nut . Should work out good.

 

soak all bleeder screws down with pbblaster , may need to heat them up if there frozen , I would soak them down first then start on changing the rod.

 

Just take your time , don't be in a hurry , that's when things usually go wrong ( for me at least )

 

Popping the original rod out is sometimes a bitch.

You will want to fast forward to 8:53 on this video....


This video shows a hydromax MC but the principal is the same.

 

Thanks for the video!

 

How did it go?

 

another (and cheaper) route would be to buy the old drum/drum master cylinder and use that rod... Summit wants $45.
I bought a remanufactured m/c at O'Reillys for $30 that came with the correct rod!