Show me ONE article saying summer & winter blends are same and I'll show you 25 that talks about difference... We've had E-10 year here for last 20+ years...
I don't know what "blend" you're referring to. But it's E10 all year-round and not just during Fall & Winter like it was years ago, and no matter what time of year you fill up, that gasoline will boil in the fuel bowls and cause starting problems on hot days. I don't need any "article" to tell me that. There has also been talk of bumping it up to E15. I hope it doesn't happen. It does nothing to reduce pollution, it produces poor fuel economy, and boils on hot days. It also is very corrosive, and absorbes moisture from the air. It gunks up carbs if it sits for a year or more without a good additive (like Carb Defender by Driven Products). It is used strictly for political reasons. There is lots of info on the web if you google ethanol gasoline.
So it's E-10- year round, BFD... As I said we've had E-10 here for last 20+ years... Has zero to do with formulating winter & summer gasolines which have different vapor points... http://newsroom.aaa.com/2013/06/what-is-the-difference-between-summer-and-winter-blend-gasoline/
or you can fill up here in Vancouver BC CANADA, our Chevron still has Premium Supreme 94 octane, which does not contain any ethanol at all! Also our Shell V-power at only 91 octane.......... David https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=BC
Not to buy into all the tangent BS here.. but personally I'll take ethanol laced fuel any day of the week. Especially if the engine is built with higher compression to take full advantage of it. And unbeknownst to most, all the newer parts and hoses are resistant to moderate levels(I've done several partial EFI conversions up into the 50% range with no ill effects), keeps the fuel system AND induction system cleaner(ever look at shiny piston crowns from a flex fuel or conversion engine?), and the minor octane boost and added induction cooling is a nice side effect too. So it attracts water a little quicker than straight gas in long term storage situations but so does a partially empty tank of gas for that matter. Just have to understand the shortcomings of the parts and fuel in question and plan accordingly. Pretty much sums up a car guys everyday life anyways. lol And to the original question. Transition slot exposure needs to be dialed in first and then pump shot increased(both stroke(cc's of fuel) AND squirter size) till she puffs black smoke on abrupt full throttle blips. The back off the shooter size and/or pump cam sizing. Brown cam with a 38 squirter will have you grinning and sawing the wheel to stay on the pavement.
Well, if you like your engine to be hard to start on a hot summer day, ethanol is the ticket. And apparently, you've never opened up a carb with caked on, yellow crap, and clogged accel discharge pump nozzle from ethanol gasoline sitting in the bowls. It also hurts fuel economy. Unless you are running a race engine, there's really no benefit.
Another expert opinion. Pretty funny stuff there, Larry. It also starts hard in the winter too. Terrible stuff that ethanol.
The word "expert" comes from experience, and in my experience, everything I said is absolute fact. And no it does not start hard in the winter. Only when it is hot and the engine is at full operating temperature. But yeah, since Larry says it, it can't be true. Only the "experts" know. And did you seriously tell that guy to put a #38 pump shooter in his 600cfm carb?
Comments like those show what you actually know. 2 things that jump out to slap any holley guy square in the face. 1st.. yes.. ethanol is well know for its lower ignitability in cold weather which is why it's often changed from summer to winter blends. Don't care what hotrod magazine said.. that's a well known fact and google is your friend. 2nd.. vac sec carbs do not have secondary pump shots to "fill in the hole" like mechanical versions do. So they typically LOVE big fat pump shots that are stretched well into the secondaries transition. Best to give the engine what it responds to.. not some preconceived notions or unpracticed "internet guru" expertise. The bigger the engine and/or cam?.. the more pump shot and timing the engine will prefer. Physics is fun.. if you pay attention to the basic rules and wisely follow them.
Yeah they did. That's how they created magical carburetors that work on all motors based only off their airflow ratings to be specifically chosen in relation to engine size. And the greatest part is that they never need to be tuned or calibrated for various engine combo's or differing gear ratios! They just work perfectly right out of the box and all those tuning parts and useless accessories you see being made for them are only needed for replacement purposes. LOL So I'll see your.. .. and raise you a..
