Eliminating/upgrading the heater control valve w/ A/C

I think it to be more important w/o A/C. you would want to keep all the heat out of the cabin as possible...JMO

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You do not NEED the valve if you don't have AC.

 

I don't have A/C installed on my Comet with air, not having control valve hasn't been a issue... At most you'd have a hot A/C-heater plenum that would add to heat in cabin... Of course if it's 99* outside, not a good thing...

Already mentioned, non A/C never used the control valve... As far as heater operation, in real world probably little, if any difference in the two systems... The valve is there to improve A/C operation..

I olden days there were models that had control valves to to regulate temp of heater, basically those sucked(Ford was still using system on '70s trucks)... Was all but to impossible to regulate the flow so heater output was at desired temp...

 

If ur car is running very hot (engine temp wise), assuming that is the question, you have an issue somewhere else. Collasped lower water hose, blockage in water passages, ign. timing or defective or thermostat in backwards.

 

Has anyone come up with a alternate Heater control valve to replace the factory one/ I have a 73 V-8 with factory air. I have found NOS one's but they range from 125.00 to 200.00

 

If you keep looking, one can find cheaper ones. Look on eBay.

 

Thats were I have found some. like to get it fixed. I'm thinking of moving on to something different.

 

The coolant is stupid, can be controlled by about any vacuum valve that fits the hose...

Here's one at Vato Zone... No doubt a dozen or two others...

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...s-everco-heater-control-valve/730323_108576_0

Actually they have over 10 pages of valves...
https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...gnoreVehicle=false&model=control&newYmme=true

 

I put a ball valve in my stepvan on one heater hose to stop the flow of water. Of course, it is manually operated under the hood, but a must in the summer. Was a brass water pipe valve. My van is just a mule though....not very "nice."

 

Stu you could add a manual choke cable and drill a hole in the ball valve handle and hook cable to it then you would not have to get under the hood to turn valve. Redneck engineering t its best. LOL

 

Get one for a 69 - 73 Mustang. There is nothing special about a Maverick one. It is a vacuum controlled valve.

 

I have thought about using a different style. But mine has 2 vacuum lines on it. One is partial and the other full. I can't seem to find a vacuum schematic.

 

In case you don't know....this is the Maverick V-8 valve.

 

Yep thats it, I think I will just bite the bullet I buy a nos one. The car's too nice to jury rig something.

 

That's the thing about keeping older cars nice/original, it's going to cost money... BUT, if you sell, at least you should recoup most of your investment...

That orig valve likely doesn't have a default, requires vac on either side of diaphragm to move it to open & closed position... I believe most newer ones default to open for heat if vac fails...