Just a thought, if drive train is still in the car, why not just leave it as is, get the suspension etc., done and drive it! You mentioned the engine has 72,000 miles on it, does not make sense to just do the top end only and you said you where going to do the rest of the engine in 2 years? Why not just wait 2 years and do whole engine? This way you can do more research as to what you want etc., and save more money and at least enjoy driving your car for the next 2 years! Just my 2 cents...........good luck! David
Damn fellas thanks for all the info! I'd like to make it clear though that I'm not a complete novice, I'm very experienced with wrenching lol my latest build is the worlds most modified (legitimately) wide bodied Jaguar X Type. It's been featured in many online publications and has even gotten responses from Jaguar themselves congratulating my efforts. The steering and suspension was completely redone with all one off adjustable control arms, solid mount and/or poly bushings everywhere including subframe mounts (alot ot them custom made). Everything was designed by me and manufactured by local companies ncluding the widebody panels. Now that thats been stated I feel a little better about myself hahaha I will not take offense to anything suggested to me, I am aware that I am a novice to the classics and especially the engines of this era. I am thrilled to learn everything I can and even more excited to finally build this car. I've had it for several years just been wrapped up in the Jag. I ordered a Track Loc limited slip with 3.80 gears last night and in a couple weeks I'm going to be ordering the heads, despite the suggestions of a couple of you guys who think I should wait on the heads. I appreciate all the help so far guys! I was looking at basically the same spec heads so thanks for confirming for me that's what I need. The rockers I have are 7/16 for the screw in style studs so I need to find some heads that accommodate that? I think my factory heads have press in studs? As with the jag, I like to over build in preparation for heavy duty use and for the ability to add more power later down the road. So far this forums has been very helpful. I am a senior member over at Jaguar Forums and have helped curate tons of new ideas and helpful fixes over the years. I hope to have as much success here as well! Cheers fellas and thanks again for the help. I am very open to continued discussions and suggestions so keep them coming if you have them!
That's not a bad idea...The suspension, brakes, steering and rear end are getting completely rebuilt anyways and I really just want more power. I've been driving the car periodically for a couple years and its pokey lol definitely ready for a decent power upgrade. Besides, I'm impatient and I already have the good majority of the top end waiting to be installed
If you're going to bite the bullet right away.. look at trick flows 190 cc 11r heads. Pricy but power potential is slightly above most other premium castings. Also fully cnc'd, have smaller 56cc chambers and lighter 8mm valve packages as well. The bigger allure is their 11 degree/flatter valve angles negate much of the ptv issues despite the larger valve. With your current cams smaller duration/lift figures you might just squeek by with enough clearance. I cannot say for certian though and would be best to call them directly to get input. Then later on when you do the shortblock.. just choose piston made for those specific valve layouts and get a proper cam. I live by the moto of overkill on just about everything I do cars or otherwise and if I didn't already have so much time into my mod'd rhs and kaase p38 heads.. those would be top of my list for new cylinder heads that don't require shaft rocker setups.
Greg not sure what you mean here, the website description and picture indicate screw-in studs which are not included with the X307 heads. No matter, it appears the OP has moved on.
What do you mean I've moved on? I'm still here... still interested... still buying heads...still trying to jus gather as much info as possible...
Was commenting on the notes in that link mentioning pedestal mount requirements. Even gives Ford part #'s further down the page indicating the same. Not a big deal or criticism.. was just a casual observation at the time and all he needs to do is choose the other part # for use with his stud mounted rockers, is all.
Another option would be the 170cc version of that 11R head. Smaller 53cc chambers with smaller 2.02 valves as well. In fact.. I have so much machine work(angle milling, 8mm guides, seats) and time left(which will be impossible to give till my next winter seasonal layoff) on my welded 58cc chambered RHS's that I may just grind out all the filler metal and move towards those same 170cc 11R version myself. Then I can mod and port those in slightly lessor fashion while avoiding angle milling and guide work to get where I need to be on my final compression number(11:1+). To anyone who has studied or worked on cylinder heads, the real beauty in those castings is in the much flatter and rotated valve angles(twisted wedge design) which improves both ports short side radius(SSR) and allows a MUCH improved chamber design with shallow valve reliefs in the pistons. Although not exactly on the same playing field as these more modestly designed Trick Flow design.. that was the exact reasoning behind buying/mod'ind my Kaase P38 heads. Because of the flatter valve angles and deeper 60cc chambers, the Kaase design can EASILY swallow up more aggressive cams upwards of 230° @.050" and well over .500" lifts with absolutely no piston notching required for PTV clearancing. Kinda funny.. after typing all that.. I think I just talked myself into buying a pair of the 170's to help further my project along through the summer. Thanks for the nudge by posting this thread!!!
I meant moved on from any further detail concerning the heads in my link. Keep posting and have a great day!!!
I just installed a set of Blue Print Engines Street Mussel heads (part# H9009) on my 351w , I love them. They are machined and assembled in Nebraska. I pulled an intake and exhaust valve out, the grinds and machining looked fantastic. I talked to them on the phone they were very helpful. I bought them from Summit for $505.00 each with free shipping. I'm also from the Kazoo area, About 20 mi west.
Nothing against those heads^^^^, because I've heard decent things about them being good bang for the buck.. but running a larger port head with 60cc chambers will barely make 8:1 compression on this OP's smaller cid combo. The new 3.80 gear will certainly help.. but still important to remember that any performance cam wants and needs higher compression to work correctly.
Figured I'd follow up here in case it helps you out at all. Got a set of Trick Flows 170cc 11R heads and I was stunned at the technically superior design features compared to all the other cookie cutter 20° stuff. Really can't believe more people don't buy these things 10:1 over the other AFR's and whatnot but I guess people really are like sheep after all. lol Don't have specific PTV clearance spec's to give you since my belt drive(crank gear) isn't installed to degree my cam yet, but a simple valve drop test shows .170" PTV clearance at TDC on the intake(which BTW ,completely misses the pistons valve relief due to revised valve location of this head).. and well over .300" on the exhaust side as it drops down into it's piston valve relief. I couldn't/wouldn't say for sure because I wouldn't want to screw you up(and it is after all, just random internet advice).. but I'd quickly lay small cash that you will have more than AMPLE amounts of PTV clearance with that much less aggressive camshaft if using heads like these. And if you look around the net.. there are many guys running flat tops with NO valve reliefs on these and the earlier twisted wedge designs due to the inherently higher PTV clearance gained with these flatter valve angles. Trick Flows advertising even makes mention of that very attribute. So .500" lift and slower lobe lift rates along with shorter durations are a piece of cake.. no special head specific pistons required. Hope that helps during your search.. good luck with it all.
