Rear Shocks contacting the Rear End

Discussion in 'Technical' started by MountainDrre, Jan 18, 2019.

  1. MountainDrre

    MountainDrre Member

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    634DD3EF-93F2-4C27-AF00-4018FBD345BE.jpeg So the traction bars on my car, assuming they are Lakewood, have a shock mounting plates integrated for staggered shocks. The Monro-matic shocks I removed have dents on the tube where the rear end has been making contact. Previous owner added spacers to a longer bolt which inserts into the upper mount to improve the geometry, but still touches. The Viking rear shocks I bought have a bigger tube and they wont work without a wider lower mount for more clearance. What are my options?

    Do the CalTracs have a wider lower mount shock location so this doesn’t happen? Thanks.
    B93BA9F0-869B-43C6-AC69-4E6FDDC12938.jpeg
     
  2. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    I contacted Lakewood back in 2013 concerning their slapper bars that are supposed to fit Maverick/Comet. They did not.

    I don't know if they ever changed their design or not. I ultimately chose CalTrac bars. They work great!

    The following is their response concerning a package I sent to them with all the detail as to why their bars do not work on Maverick/Comet.

    Rick:

    Dave Sebring here…I just came on board with the Mr. Gasket Company at the end of March.

    Part of my responsibility is Business Unit Manager for the drive train category. Lakewood suspension is obviously part of that responsibility.

    So the other day I get this envelope from you with all these details about the 21604 “slapper bar” that we make and distribute. Good stuff you sent (detail) by the way.


    Anyway…I got with R&D and pulled some product off the shelf…sure enough the tabs appear to need to be splayed if you are using a 3” housing. I didn’t realize all the V-8 applications had 3” tubes. We are going to make some changes in our product offering because the splayed tabs will work with either housing used.


    Secondly…the position of the snubber has been a topic of discussion for years. Whether or not it ought to hit on the Eye or the spring itself has a long history. Both locations are fine with regard to function.

    Thanks for your input Rick

    Best Regards

    Dave



    My response: Unfortunately it does not include all the pretty pictures I sent as argument for the reason the snubber should contact the spring eye and not the spring. I don't believe they wanted to change design based on the opinion of an amateur.

    Dave,

    Thank you for your reply. All stock V-8 Maverick/Comets have Ford 8” differentials with a 2.75” axle tube and require spayed shock tabs. The 21604 slapper bar is designed with the correct U bolt hole pattern for the 2.75” tube but does not have the needed sprayed shock tabs. By putting sprayed shock tabs on the 21604 bars at least they would fit.

    As for the snubber hitting the spring rather than the eye; I’m still of the opinion that if the snubber acts against the spring at its weakest point rather than the immovable eye all it does is transfer the rotating motion of the axle to the spring.
    Once you’ve re-engineered the 21604 bars for the Maverick Comet application, you need to market them to the Maverick /Comet owners as having sprayed shock tabs. Being a member of the Maverick /Comet Club International and a member of several internet forums let me know if I can be of assistance.


    Regards,

    Rick




     
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  3. William623

    William623 Member Supporting Member

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    Joe on FB with the Maverick comet restoration page has worked with a company to develop maverick/comet specific slapper bars. They were built for the cars. You might want to get into contact with him.
     
  4. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    I've got Mustang Lakewoods on mine (saved from a previous car) and if the shocks are contacting the axle tubes, it's not an issue. These are on the 9" rearend I have under it.
     
  5. MountainDrre

    MountainDrre Member

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    All good info, thank you all. I went ahead and installed the Viking rear shocks. I was able to adjust the slapper bars some so that there was daylight between the tube and the shock while parked. I drove the car this evening after swapping out the front shocks with coil overs as well with the SPC UCA’s. What a difference I must say. There are some noises coming from the suspension, cold night however. An alignment and adding grease to the ball joints still left to do. I may raise the front a bit and play with the shock adjustments to find the right ride.
     
  6. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I had purchased a set of SPC arms in 2016 and installed them when I did complete suspension overhaul. I had a serious issue w/ noise coming from somewhere "seemingly pass-side" of the car. l could not figure out what was making the noise; I wound up replacing them w/ stock arms and been noise-free every since. I sold the arms to a fellow forum member " glad to have them off my car".
    Others have them, and seemingly had no issues. I hope you work it out. I would be interested in what you find causing the noise?
     
  7. greasemonkey

    greasemonkey Burnin corn

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    I welded an extended mount to my traction bars to resolve this issue.
     

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