Where is the best place to splice in the pink wire? Needs ignition source power in the Run and Crank positions. Thanks.
First off, other than feed from resistance wire to coil or the A/C feed mentioned there is no switched source under hood. In my opinion best procedure is use the original resistance wire to trigger a relay(s) to operate anything added under hood. I have a painless seven circuit fuse panel that four circuits are fed from a relay(included) that powers fuse panel. Once a relay is used there is no voltage drop to various circuits because of resistance wire. The relay doesn't care if it's operated via the resistance wire, voltage drop to relay coil is only approx .2v Here's what I have on my Comet, operates ign, electric fan, choke, etc, trigger for relay is the resistance wire. https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/lv.php?sl=70107 Instead of fuse panel mentioned, you could wire individual relays operated by resistance wire but probably more than three would be asking for intermant problems. Of course you could use a "master relay" to operate a dozen or more auxiliary relays.
On my early production '74 there's 12v switched wire under the hood. It was one of the wires going to either the air cleaner or locking relay or vacuum switch on the valve cover. In the pic below you can see engine feed connector and emission feed connector. Don't know what year emissions got this extra BS
Yeah, I remember some smog laden 70s Fords having a electrical connection to air cleaner. I never worried about any of that stuff, toss it in the can and set it up pre 1968. That was before dual diaphram dist, snake pit of vacuum hoses, fast idle solenoids etc. My CJ still has dual diaphram dist for looks but the rear vac line hasn't been connected since 1973. Snakes out of sight behind dist where it just lays on intake.
