You can get new transmission lines from www.RightStuffDetailing.com I would suggest you just patch your existing line with (2) couplers and a short piece of steel line. If you don't know how to do it, take it to a shop and have it done. It would be a relatively inexpensive repair to pay a shop to do. The muffler shop could probably do it.
I tried calling the person from the forums but unfortunately he did not have any, he did also recommend to get them off another c4 transmission which I am considering. I emailed the tech support at Right Stuff Detailing and provided them with my car specs but they said they did not have anything compatible ("Unfortunetly i do not have anything i only have 302 w/C4 maybe try Mac's Dearbourne Classics") Lastly, I have called a couple of transmission shops around my town. I found one that quoted me for ~150.00 to fix the piece. He said if anything broke while repairing that it could cost up to an additional 150 if he has to drop the trans. etc. I called another shop but he said to bring it in (so I have to wait till Saturday). My question is, does 150 sound fair?
At that price I would buy them new. Call Melvins and see if they can help you out, they have a lot of maverick stuff and are extremely helpful! https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort~A2~cadffejo
For a hole in line, I split a piece of rubber hose and wrap it around line, then tighten a clamp on hose to act as a tourniquet. Last fix was on fuel pressure line on my long ago sold '93 Grand Marquis, I know fix lasted at least 8-9 years. I've lost track of that car. My Comet has one of the transmission lines joined together by a short piece of hydraulic hose.
I would cut an inch out of the metal line, take it to parts store, get a piece of hydraulic hose appox. 6" long and 4 adjustable SS band clamps to fit the hose. Push the hose over the steel line w/ clamps at each end of hose. Tighten clamps, start car, check for any leaks. If no leak, run the car to operating temp. a few times and check the clamps to make sure still tight -- If all is well -- should be good to go. I have used this method on my car when I installed external trans cooler 8+ years and several thousand miles, w/o issue. I agree, $150.00 for such a simple repair is -- over the top, excessive.
I'm with mojo on this one. Pretty common procedure back in the day to make life easier for engine/trans r&r. Anyone who's ever cross threaded those stupid case fittings while working in tight quarters will love rubber "quick connects". Think most of us here have seen rubber hoses being used up near the radiators trans cooler. I've always tried to keep the full length but the best way I've learned is to use a tubing cutter for avoiding debri inside the lines and using high pressure hose intended for hydraulics or fuel injection. Lots of line pressure there so double clamping never seems to hurt success rates. Just be sure to go easy when cranking down on the tubing cutter a little at a time or you'll end up squishing or rounding over each cut end inwards as the tube gets crushed into smaller diameter. Been there done that when too impatient and requires needle nose pliars to expand the diameter and avoid potential flow loss.
Thank you again everyone for their advice! I decided to try and do the repair myself using the rubber hose. I ended up getting transmission line (not sure if thats an issue) and double clamped both ends. Instead of cutting the hose I just decided to use the whole foot. I double clamped as advised too. My only issue now is, the rubber hose makes direct contact with the exhaust pipe. I have not turned on the car because I don't want to melt the hose. What can I do to protect the hose? I'm hoping that the solution will only need to be temporary to get it back to the exhaust shop for them to move it away, but I would not mind leaving it on if it means extra protection. *Trying to upload pics, but they never finish uploading...
If you have cut the steel line, u should be able to bend the line/hose away from the exhaust pipe. Rubber hose contacting hot pipe is/may be a problem. If you have a foot of hose in the line, definetly should be able to get hose of pipe.
So even bending it, prior to the exhaust fix, it is still really close to the hose. Can I apply an exhaust heat shield/sleeve to the area where the exhaust touches the hose? I think I read not to wrap transmission lines.
No problem! I also attached a pic of the heat shield sleeve thing I ordered to seperate them from my house to the exhaust shop (~5 miles) I haven't had a chance to try and bend them away nor have I received the heat shield. Planning to do so when I receive the sleeve and weather clears up a bit. Praying it's this weekend, been so long since I've gone for a cruise.....
