The cowl area is prone to rust out, allowing water to drain into inside of car. If floorboards are OK, probably isn't leaking, at least badly,beast of a problem to fix correctly. Duct tape across cowl vent slows leakage. Basically point is, don't spend large money in/on repairs.
Yes, back to that. You, Joseph, are at the beginning of a large and potentially expensive process. Awakening a car from a long coma and turning it into a daily driver is complicated and full of surprises. Basically everything under the hood made of rubber needs to be replaced. One must change every fluid except gear oil and automatic transmission fluid. You'll need a battery and a set of tires (old tires fail unexpectedly and spectacularly). Of course, a brake job and all the other things people have mentioned. And then there's the caveman emissions controls of a '75 250. They didn't run well in the best of times, but if you yank all the emissions hoses, it might not even run. Tinkering and trial-by-error will be required in large quantities. And then there's whatever was wrong with it before it was parked. I just finished (one is never really finished) with waking a '73 Maverick from a long slumber. It took me two years in stages to get the car to the point where I feel comfortable letting my daughter drive it in modern traffic. If your car is rust-free or nearly so, you're looking at at least $3,000 in parts and many days of labor (assuming you learn as you go and tend to be lucky). If your car is not rust free, you might do better selling it and moving on with your life. I don't want to discourage you, but I do want you to have a clear picture of what's ahead. If you need a car to get to work, you'd do better looking at an ugly Toyota (or similar) from Craigslist
Yeah I understand. It takes a lot of time. money, and work. Me and my dad are fixing it up slowly but surely. We got the stuff to do all the brakes. right now we are working on the engine so it will take some time but hopefully nothing crazy rises up on this car. it doesn't have much rust at all. Also what were you talking about with the emission hoses? can you explain some more on that and send some pics. if you are talking about the thing my dad calls the big soup can we don't have that.
Don't worry about emissions hoses, not going to prevent engine from running. Back in day I had boxes of that stuff setting in corner we'd pulled off. If removed and not capped off, won't run very well but would still start. Except for PCV valve that is actually a good device, there's not a piece of emissions equipment on my '72. Soup can sounds like the aux vacuum chamber, many had a softball size plastic chamber instead of the can. I can guarantee that carb will need rebuilding, rarely lasted more than 7-8 years before internal diaphragms were leaking. After 15-20 minutes of running time, the '71 Comet 200 6cyl I junked would foul the two center spark plugs because of carb.
ok thanks. might have to do that. my dad said this week end we will try to hot wire the coil to try and start it. he is going to test if it is good or bad and go from there. if that doesn't work. I might try a rebuilt kit for the carb. How do I know what kit to buy?
Great, we'll do what we can to help. I just wanted to make sure you didn't think this would be a casual weekend project. I'm in total agreement. Dead emissions controls generally won't keep you from starting the car , but it might not idle with vacuum leaks (both PCV and EGR are possible sources of vacuum leaks). Questions: 1. Do you have fresh gas in the tank? 2. Have you gotten a strong (blue) spark yet? 3. Have you purchased a repair manual? 4. Can you send more pictures? Once you get the car to start and run (even if it won't idle), you can get it up to operating temperature and do a compression test. That will tell you lots about the internal condition of the engine.
It has fresh gas, we are going to try and hotwire the coil this weekend, no we don't have a repair manual, and I posted alot of pictures on page 2. Thanks for all the help you guys and I know it will take awhile to fix this car up.
Wiring diagram of ign system. Use caution, jumping power directly to coil can cause it's failure or possibly other associated components. Coil is normally powered through a current dropping resistor that's part of wiring harness. Rarely fail.
we replaced the coil AND coil connector in this image the black piece by the rube hose with a clap is the coil connector. my dad said he is pretty sure he wired it correctly.
Being you,re not trying to get car started and all over the place. This is something to think about JB. Two angry brothers fighting over one car! Both being spiteful! List of things spiteful brothers could have done to keep other from getting car. 1. Sugar in gas tank 2. Water or sand down carb 3. Cut and or crossed wires 4. Cut brake line 5. Super glue in keyhole 6. Dynamite in exhaust 7. Rattle snake under seat 8. Get what i,m saying? Not the most positive thing to say. But i tend to look at things that way at times. Known a few spiteful people too. Assume the worst. What degree are you pursuing?
Me and my bro good to go! Well!!! I did crossed plug wires on exwife car long time ago. Shouda did #7
Straying but I thought this was funny. Friend's wife mentioned they just celebrated their 26th anniversary. Friend states "yea if I'd have killed instead of marrying her, I'd have been a free man last year"...