1975 maverick starting problems

Now for the advance course, fenders are on the front and quarter panels are on the rear, windshield is on the front and back glass is on the rear.

 

haha. yeah I know I can be dumb sometimes but give me some credit.

 

Credit depends on answer to this question.

In this picture???

Ignition module in this pict is for '80s/'90s fuel inj Fords.

 

so I see windshiel wiper fluid bottle the icm and that weird thing I was talking about above it. also the radiator and fan

 

That weird thing is the horn..........
David

 

The weird thing above it makes noise when you push the horn button, or at least it is suppose to. People may give you a hard time and it may not be a lot of fun trying to get your car started but we just want you to get your car going.

In all honesty you would be far better off selling the car and getting something a little newer because once you get the car going I am sure more problems will arise that will drain your wallet and you will be frustrated, we have seen it many times before here

 

Guys that thing is the horn??? The idiots that sold my friend this car installed a different horn because the one in the car didn't work. we took it out but thought the original was gone. wonder if we can fix it.

 

Just having a little fun you’re doing just fine, asking questions and learning.

 

thanks. will let you guys now if we get it running this weekend

 

Just a thought.
You said it ran on gas poured in it, and now we're back to ignition is suspect.

This could be a ballast resistor/ ignition switch problem. (You have checked all the fuses right) I see you have the dual post starter solenoid. ( Has 2 small posts in addition to the large primary posts instead of one) the second post sends 12v directly to the ignition to prevent voltage drop while you have a 200 amp load while cranking.

If the ignition fuse is blown, ballast wire bad, or the ignition switch is bad. It will still get ignition and fire while cranking. But will die when the key returns to the run position.

A simple test is to hook a jumper wire from the second small wire, (on the starter side away from the battery), directly to the positive terminal. And then if it keeps running, then the module is not getting power in the run position.

Just a heads up. If you run the jumper to the first wire terminal, the engine will crank. Even in gear, no keys.

 

Also congrats on trying to revive a mav. Reading through this tread shows your inexperienced. The classic" throwing parts at it hoping it works"

Fret not. We're all here to help, everything is a learnable skill. And you tube is your friend. Be patient and enjoy this adventure.

That being said, as a seasoned mechanic that's resurrected things far past their prime. Here is a list, an idea of what to expect. Before you start spending, this should help.

I'll just assume you're putting tires on it.

It's sat long enough even if the carb works now it's going to self destruct quickly. The diaphragms rot if left dry. Carbs are easy if you're patient.(YouTube) especially a 2100 series motorcraft.

Fuel pump uses a diaphragm, so it will fail pretty quick too. Get one now while you're rebuilding the carb.

Now's a good time to flush what was once gas and is now deak stain out of the tank as well.

Once you get it running, will it move? How's that transmission doing? Is the fliud burnt?

If it moves, will it stop? Does it need brakes?
calipers, rotors, drums, master cylinder, wheel cylinders and lines can ALL be bad. And if the rear drums are seized, it's not going to move.

And how loose is the front end, do you need bushings, a tie rod?

Not trying to rain on your parade, just be ready for anything.

 

We have all the stuff to replace the brakes. we replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, coil, coil connector, voltage regulator, and starter solenoid. we will replace all the fuses but from the diagrams we have read none of them deal with starting it. Where is the resistor? that is the coil and coil connector we replaced.

 

Ford doesn't have a resistor per se. They use a "resistance wire" and the length determines resistance. Basically they used "special" wire to feed power the coil. Whereas Dodge and others used an actual resistor on the firewall.

I'm not entirely sure if Duraspark uses a resistance wire. It may be full 12 volts through a plain wire. But either way, if a mouse chewed through it. No sparky spark.

It looks like your on the right track already. Alot of these things you've already swapped are known to fail promptly after sitting.

Also belts, hoses, and lights should be on your mind.

 

pic. of frame rails at the back and gas tank please.

 

All that necessary to verify verify resistance wire integrity, check for voltage at coil with ign on and when cranking. In over 50 years of Ford ownership I'm yet to find a bad one. It's place in circuit is shown on the diagram I posted.

Probably 99% if failed, would be from shorted coil or other grounding of ign wiring, it that case complete harness is likely burned.