Question about changing front shocks

Hello,

From researching on this site I basically have the process to change the front shocks (never done this before on my own). I know you have to remove the top bracket. But when I took a better look at it I realized the engine well support bar is over the shock bracket on two of the bolts. Is this supposed to be this way? Do I have to remove the support bar as well or will the shock bracket slide out from underneath the support.

See attached picture.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!

 

The shock tower/firewall support brace will have to be removed, if you are lucky enough, once all 3 nuts
are removed, the support brace might just lift up enough for you to remove the shock bracket. You should
remove the 2 bolts securing the shock to the bracket, twist the shock 90 degrees. then remove the 3 nuts,
lift the support brace and finally the shock bracket should just lift off the studs. Good luck!
David

if you are unable to lift the support brace, then loosen the bolt/nuts on the firewall where the support brace
is secured.........

 

the bottom bolts are the tricky ones for me...

 

Easiest to get out with the load of the car still on the suspension.

 

Thanks. That's the tip I needed.

 

Yeah I have a wheel & tire cut in half just for this process. I find hard part is keeping air in tire.

 

Changing front shocks on a Maverick is stupid-easy. You don't even have to jack the car up off the ground. Just turn the wheels all the way toward the direction of the side you are working on.

 

This was a great tip. For future person searching this job:

1. Turn wheels towards the side you plan on replacing.
2. Remove two bolts from top of shock.
3. Remove two bolts from bottom of shock - 2 rubber grommets and 1 washer for each post.
4. Remove the 3 bolts holding the support brace over the shock and loosen/possibly remove the 2 bolts for the support brace that attach above firewall.
5. Pull shock out of the top of the tower.
6. Put the new shock in by reversing the steps above.

 

I need to change out my '74 fronts. I've got a suspension squeak and I'm pretty sure it's the front drivers side shock. I can recreate the noise by just barely pressing down on the bumper. What would happen if I just removed the two bolts that hold the top of the shock to the brace? Basically unloading that shock to see if the noise goes away before buying a new set of shocks.
Did the support brace change at some time? Mine has an opening at the top (photo) and it looks like the shock may just pull right through it without having to remove the brace (but maybe that bottom flange is too big to fit through). Also, my 1970 Chiltons manual says to remove the hood. I'm not sure why it says that, the shock looks plenty short enough to clear the hood.

 

Doubt your squeak is the shocks, these cars are notorious for noisy upper control arms. They need to be grease and that rarely happens. Some don't have zerks and if they do, they are not easily serviced.

 

Seriously? "Remove the hood"? What nonsense. Just open the dang thing.
As previously mentioned, your squeak is not the shocks. You need to grease the upper control arm bushings...

 

I only suspected the shock because it the squeak came on all of a sudden. I was backing up out of my driveway and had to hit the brakes pretty hard because I saw a car coming at the last minute, of course the front end jumped pretty high and right after that the squeak began somewhere in the front drivers side. I did grease my upper and lower ball joints, they were the only ones that had zerk fittings. I found the grease plugs on my UC arm, no zerks and from what I've read on here it is very difficult to install them without removing the entire arm and I don't want to drill holes in the tower, so I may have to have a shop do that since I do not have a lift or stands.

 

I only suspected the shock because it the squeak came on all of a sudden. I was backing up out of my driveway and had to hit the brakes pretty hard because I saw a car coming at the last minute, of course the front end jumped pretty high and right after that the squeak began somewhere in the front drivers side. I did grease my upper and lower ball joints, they were the only ones that had zerk fittings. I found the grease plugs on my UC arm, no zerks and from what I've read on here it is very difficult to install them without removing the entire arm and I don't want to drill holes in the tower, so I may have to have a shop do that since I do not have a lift or stands.
Yes, no way that hood needs removed, maybe it was a typo and they meant RAISE the hood. I wonder how many people over the years actually removed it.

 

These zerk fittings work great..........
https://www.holley.com/products/restoration/suspension/front_control_arms/parts/374714-SK
David

 

Thank you David, that would do the trick! I just crawled under the car and it looks like the front grease fitting is a little easier to get at than the rear. Can they both be installed using that tool without removing the control arm?