Malwood clutch pedal

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by mavmo, Aug 27, 2023.

  1. dyent

    dyent Member

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    Oop's sorry, here is what Tilton instructions say, "Double check that the bearing to clutch clearance is .125" (tolerance +/- .025"). "
    This is between T/O face and Pressure Plate fingers........
    David
     
  2. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    This could get interesting. My friend's Mustang this is going into is running a CenterForce clutch with the counterweights on the fingers that move at higher rpm.
     
  3. dyent

    dyent Member

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    The counterweights should not travel up to and/or touch the T/O bearing, so should be OK.....
     
  4. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    That makes more sense, to me anyway. We'll see how MalWood responds. Still irks me they couldn't include instructions.
     
  5. dyent

    dyent Member

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    Let me know if you would like the instructions I have, can scan and PM them to you......
    David
     
  6. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Thanks, we'll see if needed.
     
  7. dyent

    dyent Member

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    For the "stud" that is used to keep the T/O body from spinning, double check that is does not hit the pressure plate, you may have to shorten it. When bleeding, keep the bleeder hose/nipple higher than the bearing......
    Also, some of the newer M/C's may have a built in "stop", so this would eliminate a need for a Pedal Stop. Mine is older, which is why I require a Pedal Stop.
    David
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2023
  8. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    MalWood emailed instructions to me. Clearance between the bearing and pressure plate fingers is to be 0.140"- 0.160".
     
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  9. 71_GT

    71_GT Member

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    If I don’t go hydraulic, any advice on going with a diaphragm clutch? I’ve looked at other threads regarding a toploader and it seems that I will need a different TOB? And also seems to say that the TOB always contacts the clutch?
     
  10. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    I have a CenterForce diaphram clutch in mine with the old style mechanical linkage. If you're running an older 302 with the OEM 28 oz imbalance flywheel it will be drilled for a Long-style pressure plate pattern. Many, but not all, diaphram pressure plates are lower than the original Long-style and need a slightly longer throwout bearing. Later 5.0 engines with 50 oz imbalance flywheeels will be drilled in a more symetrical pattern for a diaphram clutch and have holes for pressure plate locating dowel pins. Many aftermarket flywheels are drilled for multiple patterns. If you buy a clutch kit (pressure plate, disc, TO bearing) with the correct bolt pattern you'll be alright.

    My setup is kinda Frankenstein, a CenterForce diaphram clutch in the Long-style bolt pattern (that I used to run on a 28 oz imbalance flywheel) now mounted on a Ford 50 oz imbalance flywheel (on my 5.0) that I drilled with the Long-style pattern. My clutch has seen it's better days and I plan on soon changing to a matching flywheel/clutch.

    BTW, I've used this same setup with a Toploader and a T5, it doesn't care what trans you have as long as the TO bearing slides over the transmission's bearing retainer.

    No, the throwout bearing should not touch the PP fingers unless you're pushing in the pedal.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2023
  11. 71_GT

    71_GT Member

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    Yes mine is the original 302 from 1971. However I do need to buy another flywheel anyway. I haven’t looked but maybe I can buy one that is suited for a diaphragm clutch but yet still 28 oz.
     

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