new gauges in dash advice

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by satchelmcqueen, Oct 25, 2015.

  1. satchelmcqueen

    satchelmcqueen Member

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    well im putting new gauges in my dash and am going to replace the speed/gas gauges with something else.

    my question is, the wiring harness that hooks into the back of the gauge panel...is it for the gauge lights only? it seems to be the case but wanted to be sure before i delete the circuit board on the back.

    without the gauge panel in the car all of my lights on the outside work and signals still function. i know ill lose my signal markers on the dash, but i can live with that if i have to.
     
  2. gregmaverick

    gregmaverick Member

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    Fuel, idiot lights (oil & alternator) , turn signal, high beam.

    Note on the fuel: the fuel measurement system takes the 12V and converts to 5V on the dash panel. (That's what the regulator does).
    The fuel gauge is essentially a current meter (using ohm's law): Voltage/(Fuel tank float resistance) = current (What the gauge is measuring.

    After-market fuel gauges work the same, and some have accommodations to be able to adjust for many different fuel tank float resistances.
     
  3. satchelmcqueen

    satchelmcqueen Member

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    ok cool. i think ill use the wiring harness to tie into the light circuit for my new gauges.
     
  4. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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  5. mavgrab302

    mavgrab302 MCCI Florida State Rep

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    I installed aftermarket gauges I used two green leds for turn and a blue one for high beams. Also use a 73/10 ford gas gauge and run a new wire to your sending unit. Gas gauge will not work with the factory wire. I left my gauge harness in and just tapprd into the harness for my turn and high beams...
     
  6. jtown77

    jtown77 Member

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    I went with making a dash insert.
     
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  7. jasonwthompson

    jasonwthompson Member

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    If you can swallow the cost, these would be sweet. They are made by new vintage USA.
    [​IMG]
     
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  8. satchelmcqueen

    satchelmcqueen Member

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    this is what i wound up doing. i am considering moving the gauges forward about another 1/4 - 1/2" and removing the clear plastic cover panel. itll not only be easier to see, but ill be able to mess with the dials on the gauges. im just worried about it looking to "dead spaced" if i do that. ill have to experiment before i do the final install.

    i LOVE the fact that i decided to keep the factory round design under the new fuel and pyrometer gauges. i wired in some turn signals to work in the original space and just put back in the insert to make it look like a beefed up stock type design.
     

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  9. Shiraz_Maverick

    Shiraz_Maverick Member

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    @jasonwthompson these look very nice!! can you please send me the link or tell me where did you buy these and what was the part#? thanks!
     
  10. jasonwthompson

    jasonwthompson Member

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  11. Shiraz_Maverick

    Shiraz_Maverick Member

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  12. FL_Dave

    FL_Dave Member

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    Were any of you successful installing these New Vintage gauges? Was it a simple exchange as far as plugs and wiring? I have an external set of gauges for OP, Voltage and Temp, so I'm hoping to have it all in one like this one. I'm ok with electrical but not an expert, so trying to understand if this is something I can tackle. Thank you!
     
  13. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Aftermarket gauges have their own sending units. Just have to figure out what wires are for turn signals, fuel, high beams, and lights. In my '70:

    Mav Gauges.jpg
     
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  14. FL_Dave

    FL_Dave Member

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    Thank you. I tried to remove the panel this weekend and could not get it to release by removing the two screws in the top. I hate to pull hard or pry any more than I did, so hoping someone can tell me if there is another connection somewhere I'm missing. I can't find any videos out there either. At the very least I want to replace my lens and bulbs with LED. Thank you!
     
  15. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    You have to reach behind the gauge cluster and disconnect the speedometer cable and wiring harness plug. I've even removed the radio to more easily reach the rear of the cluster. It can be a real PITA, especially the speedometer cable. It has a flat spot on the end piece that you have to squeeze while pulling the cluster out a little bit. The wire harness connector also has a latch that you squeeze while pulling. I don't have pics, maybe someone else does.
     

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