Well, I am finally jumping into this, fire hope I don't get burnt. I pulled my engine and trans yesterday, and am going to modify my front end so I can either put in a 351W or at least get to the plugs easier on my 302 (347), and I am trying to do it for mostly just my labor. (I need the 2500.00 for a GOOD crank and stroker kit)This is my plan, and I am going to take pictures and measurements all along the way. I am doing the so called "Shelby" mod to the upper control arms, lowering them one inch. Still trying to figure out if I need to change the angle on the ball joint, some places say so and some not. At that point I am removing the shock tower down as far as I can, based on the new upper control arm location. I am going to brace and plate that area as needed, and I am going to modify the stock upper control arms so that coil over shocks can fit thru them. I am going to add the forward cage bars, running from the front hoop in the car, through the firewall, and then through the hole left by the removal of the shock tower, and bend it down to the top of the frame up by the radiator. I am going to use that bar for the upper coil over mount. Then I am going to attach the coil over to the lower control arm by way of a mount that I have already made, that slides over the drag brace attach point, it is shown in this thread http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=380 By the way, I still have that car, just not ready to start back on it yet, I want to get my driver right first. I might try to use those Howe upper arms on this car, still trying to make up my mind. I am going to install a manual rack and pinion also at that time, an article that I found on I believe this board. I will be posting pictures and keeping alot of notes for anyone that is interested. Hope to start cutting the shock towers tonight. Trying to not have to spend 2500.00 plus the same or more work. BUT, I am drag racing and light street use, not alot of open road time, so this might only be a good going straight mod....
Work done so far I jacked the car tonight, removed front tires, left shock, coil spring, left fender, and unbolted the upper control arm. Researched upper control arms from Howe and Afco. Depending on what I find out tomorrow, I am either going to use a shaft mounted A arm or a Rod end A arm, but not the stock arm. Arms are only 50 to 70.00 depending on type. I want as much room for a Windsor as possible. I ordered a caster camber gauge today also. I just measured my arms that I built for my other Maverick project and they measure 8.5 inches from the center of the ball joint to the center of travel on the rod end bearings, so tomorrow I will put them on my car and figure out the plates that are to be welded over the stock frame, the plates that I will weld the attach brackets for the upper arms. Metal cutting tomorrow, good bye shock towers.
Steve, wow it has been awhile. I have a couple things for thought, hope you don't mind. 1) the "shelby drop" actually raises the mounting point of the upper control arms 1" thus meaning you lose 1" of shock tower that you could have cut out, not helping. 2) with your ability, because I followed the other car, you could eliminate the upper control arm and weld a strut mount to the bars that are running forward and take out the shock tower altogether. Thus, you would have a strut front end and you could use the camber caster plates from a fox body mustang as well as spindles and brakes, mount your strut to your lower control arm.
Both shock towers out, no turning back now Cut out both shock towers tonight, surfed the web extensively and found these upper control, arms from Howe, http://www.howeracing.com/Suspension/Index-UpperA-CrossShaft.htm They are 8.5 inches from center of ball joint to center of pivot point. I am getting the ones with the screw in ball joints. They mount with these attached to the frame, http://www.howeracing.com/Suspension/Index-UpperA-Mounts.htm, and these are the internal adjusters, for caster and camber. http://www.howeracing.com/Suspension/Index-UpperA-Internal.htm. Ordered them all today. I have about 4.5 hours so far, not counting engine removal.
progress so far This is my project for today, I have to finish welding this side, and I hope to have the other finished this evening.
Glad to see you picking this project up again. Which ball joint are you looking at for the control arms? Is the Chrysler screw in upper compatible with the taper in the Ford spindle? Are you planning to use a similar upper spring/shock mount as your earlier project? Did you take measurements as to the height of the stock upper mount points from the frame rails before cutting out the shock towers? You will need to have an approximate height so you can get in the ball park for the mock-up. With the caster and camber gauge, you can then move the mounts up or down to get the best locations vertically as well as fore and aft. This project really looks good. I can't wait to see the finished project. When you get done can you take measurements for the amount points, etc. so others of us can blatantly steal your design for our projects? :evilsmile
Ward, I think you have this backwards. The Shelby drop lowers the mount points by between 1" and 1 3/4" depending on who's template you are using. If you drop it 1", you do not run into ball joint bind. If you drop it 1 3/4" you will create a bind and will have to use a negative wedge adapter which mounts the ball joint at a slight angle to get it back within the range of motion that it was designed for. A 1" Shelby drop usually results in approximately 1/2" drop at the fender which isn't much if you are trying to drop the front of the body. But is does help with camber gain in the corners.
I took a lot of pictures and a bunch of measurements. I am using Volare upper ball joints, they have the same taper but you have to drill the spindles a bit with a tapered drill to set the ball joint a little further down so you can get the nut on it correctly. I am awaiting the upper control arms and mounts so I can clamp everything together and run the suspension to check caster, camber and bump steer. I took degree measurements of the spindles at ride height, but with the original upper control arm mounts staggered, i.e. the front holes are slightly higher than the rear, it will be intereseting to see the effect of the upper control arm bolt holes being the same height. I have a digital protractor and a caster camber gauge, so I should be able to get everything set right. I am going to set the lower control arm camber mount adjustments in the center, and then center the upper arm adjustments, so I will have plenty to do what I need.
I was wondering if you were going to add support to the frame rails since you had cut out the shock towers and could no longer use the shock tower braces. This seems like a smart way to kill two birds with one stone. So if I have this right you are using the Howe 221385 upper control arms, 22688 slider mounts and 2286 slider adjusters with Volare screw in upper ball joints. Any suggestions on where to find a taper drill bit with the correct taper? I have not been able to find anywhere that actually calls out what the taper is in the stock Maverick spindles. Edit: Never mind. Speedway motors has them. Looks like 1.5" per foot or 7 degrees. If having the front and back mounts for the upper control arms level instead of angled doesn't give you the geometry you want, you might consider using a wedge under the sliders to put them at the original heights but also keep the tops of the slider mounts parallel to each other. This would also allow you to raise or lower the sliders during the mock-up with less effort. If I remeber right, having the front mounting hole slightly higher is done to build in a little bit of anti-dive into the front suspension. You may want to seriously consider mounting the uppers control arms at a similar angle in your project. Nothing like having the front end drop way down under braking. Changes the entire geometry and makes had braking at speed really scary. I am very interested in seeing more of your progress and seeing more pictures. What you are building seems like it would be a good budget suspension upgrade. Not to mention have the ability to easily change ride height, spring rates, etc. Please keep us updated.
Jay and Steve, I apoligize for the "shelby drop" info. I was thinking bass ackwards. Steve, thank you for sending me that write up, no more confusion for me. Steve, it is looking way cool and I would be very interested in your write up when you are done.
It definetely sounds like the holes should be raised, "drop" seems like you should raise the holes to do that, like you are dropping (lowering) the suspension.
Thanks, and I will for sure keep you updated on the cost and time it takes. I have about 210.00 in materials and about 9 hours labor so far, not counting removing the engine.
latest progress I have the right side mocked up and have been checking caster/camber settings. I have lowered the upper control arm (shelby drop) 1 1/2 inches and have made it level instead of angled like the original setup. I am having a very knowledgeable front end guy by today to look at it and give me the okay, at which time I will figure a little better way to mount the arm. Right now I have the camber at -.25 degrees, and caster at + 2.5 degrees. , with a lot of adjustment either way. I have the material to raise the upper control arm up to 1" below the original setting, and am going to try that out shortly.
