Alignment is wandering. Can i mark it when straight and realign at home?

I dont know if they arent cranking the bolts down tight enough or if eccentric kit allows it to slide around easier or what. But i am getting tired of taking it in every month.

So, my question is if i get it aligned and mark where the eccentrics are in relation to frame, would i be able to just line the marks back up and get it straight in my driveway next time it wanders?

 

i would try to find out why it's wandering...

 

This is why I mentioned that the brackets or ecentric guides need to be welded. Maybe that isn't the problem but it could be at some point.. As far as marking, it needs to be marked once it's reset.
I am feeling even stronger about my opinion that the 20s create problems, altho they look the best. Just sayin..

 

My tape measure and angle finder get as close as some of the morons who have worked on my cars. Plus Gene may have something, larger wheels/tires have more leverage against the excentrics. Gives a smaller pothole more force to move it out of allignment

 

I asked if i could weld the plates down and they recommended against. I may get it straight and just give them two little tacks each. Then make nicks to line up to later.

If these are going to wander then i will just reset them each time i rotate my tires if it will work like that.

Personally, i think the plates are why they are slipping. My old guy could adjust them without plates and tbey would hold forever. I just went in to get them checked after i got new tires. Been a nightmare ever since...

 

Tacks will be better than nothing. Might try for the four corners of the plates if possible.

 

For what 2 alignments cost you can buy the gauges and slip plates to do it yourself. That's what I did 20 years agao, saved a pile of money since then.

 

I would love to be able to do it myself. Can you post a link to what these gauges and slip plates look like and how much they run?

I am sure I could do it better than some of these other guys.

And, luckily, I have only paid for one alignment, the rest were under warranty.

 

My alignment guy told me the the lower a-arm mounts to weld on thicker metal And then get the square racing cam bolts and that will stop just about 90% of any wandering as long as the steering box and. Idler are good

 

The sell a kit to replace the eccentrics witha square plate that has three holes in it - giving you 6 positive locking alignment choices.

 

Can someone post a link of these items Paul is talking about?

This is getting annoying. Yes, the roads I drive on are bad, but this is a damned TRUCK and should be able to handle them, and worse!

 

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=EE1+01


Here you go scoop these won't let it move around I'm going to get them soon when I go to weld 14 gauge metal on the mounts so they are stiffer and hold up better when the. Bols aretighted down

 

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=EE1+01


Here you go scoop these won't let it move around I'm going to get them soon when I go to weld 14 gauge metal on the mounts so they are stiffer and hold up better when the. Bols aretighted down

 

Exactly what I was going to suggest.
http://www.globalwest.net/67-73-mustang-front-end-individual-components.html
(lower right side)

I learned that they have to be pretty fricking tight, I had them torqued, and one slipped while driving around the block..

 

This is actually on my Dodge truck, with 20" wheels.

But yes, I think they need to torque them down harder than 80 ft/lbs. this seems to let go on the first speebump, or as we call them here in Texas, "roads".