Shot in the dark.. 1990 Olds Cutlass Ciera SL 3.3L Spitting out a Code 22 (Throttle Position Sensor Voltage Low). It'll drive a few blocks and then the speedometer goes crazy and the car shuts off while driving. It also had a surging idle while in park, would surge high or drop low depending on its mood. That seems to have gone away with a new TPS but still doing the crazy cutting out thing. Tried a new ECM as well but still spitting the same code at me.. Any thoughts on what I should try next? Here's a thread I was posting on to the Olds forum if it helps. http://www.oldsmobileforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4215
the wires and connectors don't look damaged. not really sure where to hook a voltmeter up to on the other end so I can't check it that way. The shop can diagnose it monday, but if someone was like "oh yea! I've seen that before" it was worth a shot. Thanks Bud! I repair people's computers for a living.. They don't belong in cars IMO lol
Is the TPS adjustable? I've dealt with linear potentiometer type TPS's which needed adjusting even when new. An incorrect resistance value could cause incorrect voltage readings, and very wonky injection or idle air control. I doubt this post is applicable, but I thought I would try. (I'm really not even 100% sure on all this)
I was kinda wondering... the way the screw holes are it looks adjustable. Can't find any info on it tho. I assumed not, and that it just lined up flush with the throttle. That is a very good point! How was the adjustments done on the ones you worked with? Was it a position sorta thing or were they able to be calibrated in some way?
Shot in the dark on the cutting out. If this is the same vehicle model I am recalling.. Check under the car at the front of the motor. If you see a wire loom, look inside it and see if the wires are good. To me it shuts off due to lack of the basics.. fuel, ignition, air..
To calibrate the only TPS I've ever used, I attached a multimeter to the correct contacts and measured the resistance values. It needed a certain value at WOT and a certain value at closed. Once the TPS screws were loosened I could rotate it, changing the resistance values. It took a while to find the sweet spot, but it was stopping the car from getting correct fuel on start-up. Maybe a Buick parts department could help you diagnose this? They'll know all the right numbers and such. Hope this helps. Cheers!
It was a calibration issue. Thanks guys! Put a wad of aluminum foil under the paddle to lift it up, reset the computer and the code went away. Guess i didn't need that new ECM lol... oh well. Thanks again! Now I have one car that will be reliable. Gonna take the throttle body off tomorrow and make the fix permanent. Feel kinda silly I didn't try this sooner..
