03 Mustang Cobra Problem I need Some Help!

I've done that and it did not move.

 

Have you noid light tested the injector harness? And or load these circuits?

 

the line i pinched is steel braided on the outside and it feels like hard plastic lines
Very good point on the bleeding injectors because the car smells like raw gas and when warm you have to floor the gas pedal to restart like it is flooded. I will ask what kind of fuel he uses
Another thing I remember now is that when i first looked at the car i went to my scanner and looked at the short fuel trims and Bank 1 was going from 3% neg to 1.6% positive with the miss. and bank 2 was stuck on 32-33 % positive.
that means bank 2 was lean right?

 

I have noid tested them they all had juice the same
What do you mean by load the circuits?

 

Basicly make sure they will carry the load of an injector. I wonder if they share a ground or splice or something that would cause the 2 cylinders not not properly operate the injectors. Iv been fooled before with just a meter.

 

Ok I got you!
Yesterday i tried lifting the fuel rails to see if they would all spray the same but the injectors have no snap lock to hold the injector on the rails so if had tried to crank the injectors would had flown off the rail.

 

I use a zip tie around the connector kickout on each one to keep the injectors on the rail when they're loose and you need to run fuel pressure to it.

I definitely would not pinch the lines since they are the steel braided type.

If bank 2 is going lean but the other side is not, your miss is probably more prevalent on bank 2. Even with a leaking injector, once the plug is fouled and combustion stops, the tables will swing lean even with raw fuel pouring out of the exhaust valve.

Greasemonkey has point with the load test on the injector circuits. I use a meter for that but trying to explain how to someone else may not give you the results you're looking for.

 

Hi again!
so today I Asked the guy about the pumps they're both gt 40s pump.
so he's got a driver module for both pumps I unplugged one of the pumps and it you can hear/feel the engine changes sound but it makes no difference on fuel pressure It doesn't drop with either pump running.
Later on I lifted the fuel rail and I used zip ties around the connector kickout on each one of the injectors to keep the injectors on the rail (bank2)
Asked my brother to crank and all 4 seemed to fire the same amount of gas That's cranking not running.
So then I thought what if the EGR valve is stuck open? that would've caused a vacuum leak without perception right? but no Luck.I took the egr valve off blocked the hole on the manifold, no go.
weird car! I would hate to give up on this car

 

Found the problem!
cyl 1 no compression. one of the intake valve is seized lightly open and rocker arm was off from it. never seen this happen before, valve guide's fault I believe. ran dry when engine was running hot in traffic?
I guess that explains bank 2 running lean and missfiring that piston was pumping air back to the intake (big vacuum leak)? right?

 

You wouldnt beleive the number of times iv seen that. I worked at a lincoln mercury dealer and continentals, navigators, and aviators were very common. One of the main reasons i wont own a mod motor.

 

Glad to see you found the problem Chirt.

 

Good, glad you found it. The 3.0 duratech also had issues with the valve to guide clearance hanging valves open. A lot of times, if the follower doesn't fall off, it can be very difficult to isolate it as it tends to happen after jumping off the hwy and sitting in traffic for a few but then goes away.

 

I'm going to drop the engine off hopefully sometime next week. since you guys seen it before, what's the remedy? new guides and valve or what? What if I lightly grind the valve where it runs in the guide for more clearance would that work?
What if before i drop the engine I try banging the valve with a copper bar to see if frees it and if it does do you think that's too risky or is it worth a try?

 

Hey Buddy long time no see huh? It's been almost a year!
I been wanting to go see Jr on a saturday but haven't found the time yet.
he's car is done just needs few details.

 

We put heads on them. If you have access to ALLDATA, run the VIN and make sure the TSB for 4.6l 4V head replacement doesn't apply to that engine. There is a localized overheating problem that occurs mostly on the 7 or 8 cylinders(in the head itself) but I have found that it can happen on any of them. If the TSB doesn't apply (or even if it does) an engine builder can repair the valve to guide clearance and replace the affected valves since any that have stuck open are likely burned. It will probably at the least need a valve job. Don't grind on the valves.