Big upgrades; help/suggestions mustang 2 suspension

I just ordered a mustang 2 suspension (rc 107) from rod & custom motorsports and a front and mid engine plate from competition engineering. I was wondering if any one has used either parts on their maverick and had any tips about installing the motor plates and possibly lowering the block a bit and pushing it closer to the firewall. Thanks for all of your help.

 

Going the same route with my '77 Maverick, so I am interested in responses to your inquiry as well.

 

did your...motor mount stands...come installed on the crossmember?

 

I have not received them yet but I dont think they will.

 

only if you tell them what motor you are running...

 

I just finished installing the R&C kit and my mounts were already welded to the crossmember but as Frank said, I told them it was for a 351 when I ordered it. You could mount the whole assembly back a little bit but you have to be aware of bellhousing clearance and your trans mount. The kit is great and William is very helpful but it wasn't as simple as I thought. Headers & pwr brakes if you were going that route can still be challenging and will require some imagination. I'd be happy to chat when you are ready to get started.

Regards, Joe

 

I am pretty sure i told them for a 302 but either way im going to run a front and mid plate mount. I already upgraded to a power brakes along time ago and currently run hooker long tube headers. I appreciate the help and will definitely be writing you for help. If you have any pics i can look at in the mean time that would be great.

 

You might run into problems with your headers and booster/mc. Although you gain a ton of room by losing the towers, the steering shaft angle changes and may interfere with your headers. (I believe a manual rack would be less of a problem than the power rack I chose). Also, if you are using the stock power brake set up, the valve cover may hit the angled booster. It did on mine but the 351W additional deck height was a factor. If you move your motor back a bit as you are thinking, that would exacerbate the booster issue. I do have a solution for you using an old Impala bracket and booster set up if you run into problems.

PM me your e mail, I have many pix to share and I'll give you my contact info to chat when you want.
Regards, Joe

 

If you're running plates, you don't want the motor mount towers. You'll want to cut them off if they come welded in, just more junk in the way...

 

I'm still installing mine.
If you are going to run motor plates then you don't need the motor mounts. You might want to call William and tell him that and they won't sell you the motor mount kit. That's a $107.00 savings.
I didn't have the motor mounts installed on mine but i did shorten my mounts so i could get some extra hood clearence so i could run nitros.
By doing that i found that my 7 qt oil pan wound not clear the steering rack and craddle and had to go with a stock pan with some minor hammer work.
Also if you are going with motor plates you can set your engine back as much as you want but you will more than likely have some header issues.

 

Just started getting things all apart. I was wondering if anyone runs a power booster that bolts directly to the fire wall instead of the angle bracket. thanks.

 

Take a look at my set up below. The key is the booster bracket from a 55-64 Chevy Impala that raises the booster out of the way enough to clear even the additional deck height of a 351W. Almost a perfect fit, just needs to be notched as shown. It even attaches to the angled power brake pedal that is already in your car if it was a factory pwr car. I'b be happy to provide more info if it interests anyone.

 

Where did you get the brake lines?

 

I just made them myself, not hard. I ran them to an adjustable proportioning valve mounted behind the dash and then inside the car to the wheels since I wanted a clean look.

 

care to share how or where you got the parts? I would like to run flexible stainless line throughout the car. thanks