I just installed my front bar to check for fitment and if there was going to be any issues.........since our custom bar is based on Addco's 835, which is the same as used on 65/66 Mustangs etc., there are a few modifications that must be done to fit our Mav/Comets......... 1). as outlined in their instructions, you must drill another hole on the front frame mounting plate, where the sway bar mounts to, as the sway bar mounting "U" bracket holes have a wider spacing than what is on our frame. 2). or you can enlongate the "U" bracket approx. 1/8" on each hole and this will work too, this way you do not have to mess around with stock hole location on frame. Washer/nut will still sit flat against the bracket. I used this method, I enlongated the bracket holes on my milling machine, you can use die grinder/burr to enlongate or round file, may take a bit of time as bracket is 1/8" plate steel.... 3). depending on how our replacement vertical ends are, the 6" bolts are definitely too long! I calculated that 4" would be just about right, but until bars actually arrive.......I have pictures with me holding up the current end links/control arm so you can see the difference. Since this bar was based on design fitment for early Mustangs, my concern was how close it came to the outside frame rail. In one of my earlier posts in this thread, I mentioned that way back when, I was going to use my 65/66 Shelby 1" bar, but could not as it did not clear the outside frame rail, so I had to use wider 67 Shelby bar and modify the end links to fit. Our custom bar is REALLY CLOSE to the frame rail, barely 1/4" to 3/8" clearance on each side. If your vehicle is stock, it will probably be OK, but if it has been modified/lowered, you may have a problem!!!! I have taken a bunch of pictures with it on my bone stock 73 Comet 302, I will see if I can post pictures, since I am still a relatively new member, I may not beable to. If that is the case and if members who ordered one would like pictures, I can send to your email via personal message? My suggestion for those of you who already have your bar, if you have the time, would be to trial mount to be sure it does clear everything on your particular Mav/Comet and if there are any issues to contact John at Addco...........
I have a 1" 65-66 mustang bar on the front of my car now, and I didn't have to drill anything.....interesting....
the area in question regarding possible clearance issues, would be just behind the OEM sway bar end link hole or approx 2 - 2 1/2" from end of end link. the width of the OEM bar for this area is 35 1/4" where as on the Addco is 34". If you have the time to install this weekend........you will have to modify the "U" bracket or frame mount holes regardless, so removing 6 bolts/nuts to remove your current bar and install Addco for peace of mind, end link themselves do not have to be installed, since they are wrong anyways.........good luck!
it could be because of the larger 1 1/8" bushing that bracket is wider and thus hole spacing is different? Quickest way would be just take the Addco bracket that comes with our hardware kit and match it to your vehicle to see if holes will line up. The stock 5/16" bolts used to secure the OEM bar protude out about 1", so you should beable to place Addco bracket right up under the OEM or current bar you have in place and see if you have to do any mods.........as for clearance, you still would have to install the Addco.
I just checked Addco's catalog, 64-66 Mustang bar has a different part number than our Mav/Comet 69-77, Mustang is 832 and Mav/Comet 835. Regarding the clearance issue, the thicker the bar, the less clearance there is between bar/frame, you can only go so big before you have to change the bends to maintain same clearance. It would be interesting to see what their regular production 7/8" bar is like for the clearance and/or if it has the same "width" of 35 1/2" or 34". Having that extra 1 1/2" or 3/4" clearance between the bar/frame rail can make a big difference.....
here are some pictures of install........last post I mentioned 35 1/2" it is actually 35 1/4"............ first pic, notice how I had to enlongate both holes 1/8" inwards. second, see clearance difference between OEM and Addco. third, with end link parallel to lower control arm, 6" bolt/heim is way too long, I figured 4" should be enough, but will have to wait until we get replacement bar to check against vertical ends. forth, distance of 3" between end link and lower control arm. fifth, really close to frame rail, only 1/4" clearance, may hit if your front suspension has been modified.....I could not perform "bounce" test to see if it hits the frame, since the end links can not be attached to flat ends. at least you folks have an idea of how the bar looks installed and areas to check for on your particular vehicle.......
while I am at it, here are a couple of pics of Quickor's 3/4" rear and how it mounts through side of frame. this was taken from my 74 Comet, which was sitting outside since 1992, notice 9" rear on beefed up leaf springs and Koni shocks......this car went to Mav/Comet heaven end of Feb. Removed all the parts though! Now have 73 Comet, will eventually put all goodies from 74 into it........
Nice job. Thanks for going the extra mile and checking this out for us. I half expected to have to grind away at the from some anyway.
Koni Special 'D' Adjustable Rear Shocks p/n: 80-2235 these are oil filled, fully adjustable, I think 3 or 5 settings and unlike most other shocks, can be rebuilt! these are also available for fronts, I can't find p/n, but you can go to Koni's site. these shocks where used on early Shelby's, even though design maybe almost 50 years old, they work! Before I first got these back in the late 80's, I tried a bunch of different brands, including KYB gas shocks, just could not control suspension damping etc., Koni's where the only ones that could. As you seen in the pictures, with beefed up rear leaves, great on smooth track, but bone jarring for everyday normal street driving, bumps etc.... they are still available, I think I paid $65 each back then.........
Hey Chris: Thanks, my pleasure anything that I can do to help out members, nothing worst than unexpected surprises hey you deserve alot of the credit and thanks too for making this possible! As you probably are well aware, if you had to grind/notch frame area, there is plenty of "lip" that removing 3/4" would not hurt anything and give you enough clearance. I thought about calling John to explain how tight the clearance is, but sometimes best to leave as is........opening another can of worms could cause other issues. Maybe when you talk to him later this week you can see what he thinks about this. Regarding the correct end link/heim joint, in the picture that Addco sent us of the 2 lengths, the shorter one would be the correct set up to attach to verticle ends, including shorter sleeve/jam nut..... cheers, David
I sent John an email and told him to check the site for info from dyent. For the Koni shocks, I think they are obsolete now. I pick up a NOS pair off of eBay a few months ago for $200. Part number is 80E-2085. Actually for a '69/'70 but should work fine. Was another set a couple weeks ago on eBay that went for $50, never fails. Only time I have ever seen them on eBay. Here is a contact at Koni if you are looking for more info: Mason O’Hara Technical Sales Representative 1961A International Way Hebron, Ky. 41048 859 488-0324 Mason.Ohara@itt.com
I just dropped a line to John, if he was unable to view the pictures via our forum, then he could contact me and I would email them or if he had any questions to call, thanks. David
I finally got mine today...a little worse for ware..the box has some holes in it, and one of the hardware bags was opened..everything was loose in the box, and from what I can see, I'm missing a few heim joint spacers, but nothing that can't be sourced locally...I am pleased and surprised that they shipped it using the post office...saves me from being screwed by UPS...but the poor girl at the post office...she didn't know what to think, the box made quiet a sound with all that loose stuff in there..
great to hear you received your bars, too bad about the open hardware bag, you would think they would stuff the box with packing paper just to keep the bar from shifting around, mine came with the box ends popped open, fortunately everything was still there, at least the bars where wrapped in bubble foam! you might want to call/email John and ask for replacement heim spacers so they can send along with our new bars. they may or may not be needed, just depends on how much end link movement there will be, spacers are used to maximize ball/pivot movement, just having bolt right up against heim can limit its pivot movement or bind......... great that they sent it via USPS, with us Canucks, if customs does charge us for taxes, they just add on a $5 handling fee, alot cheaper than the brokerage fee UPS would have charged. only thing is that you have to wait longer for customs clearance via postal service.
