There is no alternator light. I have an aftermarket volt meter wired to the hot lead for the gauge cluster and to ground. The wiring diagram you posted here is the exact same one I used to connect my new regulator.
BUT, have you checked the fuse link I mentioned??? Problem has to be in connections of that diagram, the fuse link is the most likely suspect...
There is a fuse link on the battery side of the solenoid. Is that the one you mean? It appears to be a completely sealed item so I'm not sure what can be done with it to test it or check it.
Give a good tug on the fuse link, if it stretches or comes apart it's bad, otherwise can be checked for continuity with a ohm meter... A test light or meter connected to batt post of alt will also confirm if its bad... About any auto parts store should have a replacement link, will have to crimp it to the wires... BTW what happened to the alt light??? The bulb circuit is used to excite the regulator, may not charge without it...
Really? Now you may be on to something. The lead from the regulator to the idiot light was only connected to the "noise suppressor capacitor". Since I added the volt meter to the dash I didn't care that there was no light so that terminal on the regulator is empty. How does the presence of a light that is normally off excite the regulator and what can I replace it with that will do the job without that light?
You need the light. Power has to pass though the light first before it goes to the rest of the charging system.
Well assuming there was a light originally(never seen a Mav/Comet without one), just connect the Lt Green/Red wire back to the I terminal.... Not shown but usually there, is a resistor across the bulb to provide a current path in case the bulb fails, still won't do any good if disconnected at regulator...
Oh I'm sure there is a light in the dash but it hasn't been connected since I bought this car and now that I have a voltmeter I don't need the light for information. That's why I just want to do something to take it's place. So do you mean just looping that wire from the "I" terminal back on itself? Or is there a resistor I can put in that line?
Thinking about it a little more (always dangerous), since that wire went to the lamp and then to ground, what if I just ran that wire straight to ground?
Nope won't charge, it's a switched power supply that's necessary and if you connect it direct, something will smoke... If it wasn't used before, check that fuse link first...
If it was me...I would replace the bulb with a good one and ride. Most likely you will notice the light before you notice the gauge. Nothing wrong running both light and gauge.
Very true.. I've recently rewired my Comet so I can use a internal regulator Alt and have the orig light operational as well... Was charging 14.2v a couple days ago when I first checked it out, may or may not get a voltmeter down the road...
If it was as simple as replacing a bulb I would do it, but there's no connection, no wire from regulator to the dash. I have always been a gauge watcher and never needed a light to get my attention. So making that light functional is not worth the effort for me.
This morning I went to talk to a friend of mine who runs his own ASC certified repair shop. He's a good guy who makes his living at this stuff and I trust his opinion. (Oh, and he's got his own Maverick that he's building.) Basically, he's stumped too. He did say that having that wire lead to the idiot light left unused should not be a problem and wouldn't cause the low charge. His recommendation is to go with a Ford one-wire alternator and just eliminate the whole regulator problem. Summit has one for under $100 bucks and that just may be they to go.
