I'am in the middle of altering the towers and I know I'm not the only one to do this it's not a big deal,But the question no one can seem to answer is which header will now fit?The motor is a 408 and I dont need a pinched down tubed header,like tubular or crites.Would like a Hooker super comp . Does anyone know of a hooker part # that will work???Thanks.Mavmo
If your just doing the "tower shave" it will not gain you any header room. Now if your getting rid of the towers or moving them outward that will get you room.
Really depends on how low you cut the towers. Most of the header interference on a Windsor happens lower than where most people cut their towers. I actually cut mine low and left the upper area alone. With the engine compartment fully dressed you can't even tell they've been cut. But that's not all I had to do... Took out the "humps" in the lower part of the tower and reinforced, notched the areas where the engine mounts bolt to the frame just under the towers, Shelby drop and bring the tower notch all the way down to just above the original A-arm holes, relocate the speedometer cable and knock in the area of the firewall/floor where it used to be, grind down a couple of bolt heads on the passenger side, shave just a bit off the steering box, and notch the brace on the frame where the trans crossmember connects so the pipes will bolt to the collectors... That along with a few small dings on just about every tube and I was able to get a pair of Summit G9031's on my 351w. It was a lot of work, and those header have 1.5" primaries. I can't imagine getting anything bigger than that in there without going to some other kind of front suspension.
Doesn't affect the header fit. Only your ability to get your big old hands in there to put in the header bolts. And spark plugs.
Here is a picture of my 70. I just pulled the motor and trans Saturday for a refresh. It is a 408 with some TR Roush/Yates R heads............the headers were made by Bill Dawson in L.A. some 10 years ago, and are stepped, the primaries are 1-3/4 and go to 1-7/8. They tubes are 29" long just before they go into the 12 degree merge collectors. My towers have been shaved all the way down and although it takes a good hour to change plugs.......................currently beats spending the money to put a Mustang III suspension under it. I am pretty sure SPD in Rancho Cordova still has the jigs they built when they mod'd my headers.................you could always call John and ask him.
Carving out the towers does make room for the headers...........but does not make much room for your hands/finders/wrist, the reason it takes so long to change plugs is that 3/4 and 7/8 cylinders are taken out by braille, and put back in the same way. Without the towers cut about the only thing that will is stock flat exhaust manifolds............IMHO
Here is how I did mine... I went in another 1/2" more than most, but it still doesn't get into the header tube area.
Well so far thankyou guys very much for the response's to my header dilema,I do have acouple of guys who do custom headers in portland or.So maybe I'll have to go that route.Thanks again.
If you get headers made. Please have them save the pattern. I would like fat 351 pipes that would fit with keeping my power steering. And minimal trimming towers like yours. I have a 72. 250 6. I'll drill holes in inner fenders to change plugs if I have too. Just put a plastic plug in it.
