Hey y'all, I recently picked up a "74" Maverick, the kid swore came with a V8, it didn't. And I think whoever put this "83" block in this "74" 200 I6 3 speed column shift car, used a 28oz imbalance flywheel. It starts, runs (kinda, carbs buggerd) but has a wicked out of balance, shakes the entire car, engine vibration. I'm just now learning these wonky 302 and 5.0 difference's, so please bear with me. I have some questions. I already know there is also a difference in tooth counts, thus a different starter. My main question is, is there a bell housing difference as well? Will the 164 tooth flywheel and starter even fit this bell housing? And most importantly will this little 3 speed even handle a 5.0? It appears someone installed some sort of floor shifter, but I've yet to locate first and reverse (are they still in there?) Judging by the look of it, the V8 was stuffed in here, made to start and run, that's it. The body is solid, but it's sadly been the victim of a kid that just didn't know. Not sure what her fate will be at this point.
That three speed is fine behind a 302. As far as the flywheel, you can get the 50oz for the 5.0 in 157 and 164 tooth, just need to verify what you have now. Don't give up on the car, as long as the engine is healthy you can get it going!
Some 164T bells have a dual starter pattern so 157 can be used. A 164T flywheel will not fit in a 157T bell. Balance changed in '82, flywheel for Mustang should work. Any idea if balancer is correct? Also must match engine.
If the car had the 250 six in it originally not the 200 the bell housing would of bolted right up to the 302/5.0. Besides the flywheel make sure they used the right Front balancer or you will have problems as well. One more thing around that year make of engine. Make sure it isn’t a 255 v8. I think they use the 50 0z balance as well. Even though they are a lighter weight crank than a 302 crank.
Here's the door tag, as far as my decoding skills go. "T" engine code is 200 I6. And trans code "1" was 3 speed manual. So we can now assume that's not the original bell either. As for the block, it's stamped under the distributor 3E17. I know that doesn't tell much , but 3E I believe denotes "83". The numbers near the starter will tell me more. The balancer could also be wrong, but I've never had a balancer make this much shake. Its possibly both. I suspect the engine is out of an F-150 automatic or something, and they ordered a "74" flywheel when they put this together. The shake is strange. At some rpm it's smooth, couple hundred revs higher and you can barely hold onto the steering wheel it's shaking so hard.
Something else I noticed, she's a 200 six car with 5 lug wheels. If it weren't for 4 wheel drum brakes, I'd suspect someone did a 5 lug swap. Was "74" the year all Mavericks and comets went to 5 lug?
I would make a list of the date code numbers off the Intake manifold Heads Block Exhaust manifold Distributor Carb Flywheel Bell housing Front balancer to get a good idea of what parts may have been thrown together so no other surprises come up. Is the shaking in the steering wheel only when driving or when it’s sitting still as well? What kind of engine mounts did they use?
Day engine was assembled, 3E17 is 1983(mebby '93), May, 17th... IF were '73, balance would be correct. AFAIK 255 were dead after '82.. 1973
Look like factory mounts to me. Car won't drive. The shift linkage or possibly worse is boogered and I can't find first and reverse in the H pattern. In fact where they're supposed to be, there is no pattern at all, feels like the linkage goes free. It shakes running, even with the car parked, foot on clutch and transmission in 3rd. So I know it's not transmission related. Possible broken pressure plate maybe. As for engine decoding, I just remember C= 60s, D=70s, E=80s and so on... So all the parts on the engine should have an "E" or "F" in the beginning of the stampings to be compatible. The balancer looks new, so probably wrong. And it has a points dizzy. I'll have to get it up on stands and crawl under there to find more numbers.
Mavs went 5 lug prior to '74 so they're correct on your car. There could be several causes for the shaking. My 250 doesn't idle smooth even though it's tuned correctly and I rebuilt the carb. Just can't seem to get it smooth. Still, it runs great. I thought they went electronic by '74 as to distributor. I know my '75 is. I would definitely either ditch the points distributor or put in a Pertronix unit at least. The shaking running I wouldn't think clutch related though if you meant driving, a possibility then. You also haven't said if you have replaced any tune up items or not as they could either be bad or incorrect as you seem to feel that the past owner liked to cobble things. I wouldn't get too worried about internals or the like until you've assessed the things like plugs, wires, etc., general tune up items which will affect running in a big way. Vacuum also will help make a car run like crap if you have leaks which I would greatly suspect you do. I certainly wouldn't exactly trust the condition of the carb. The shift linkage for sure needs attention, but it could just be bad or missing bushings. Those alone would make shifting akin to stirring a pot of oatmeal. It's not uncommon for bushings to go bad after a number of years on a manual. Then the shift patterns turn to slop. Easily and cheaply corrected.
Incorrect balancer and/or flywheel results in a large paint shaker. As you say, not really a drivable vehicle. As for 1st & 2nd, when shift lever is pulled through the neutral gate, levers closest to firewall should be moving. As for year ID, a easy way is look at stamp on top of block, just behind intake. If stamp starts with number it's 1980/earlier. For 1981 year ID changed to letter B, 82 C, '83 D & so on.. This is stamping on my orig 1972 302
I'm going to try and bear the heat today and see if I can gather numbers, maybe more. It idles smooth, but the carb is poop. It leans out even with the squirter pump working. I don't think the boosters are drawing fuel. So I got an Amazon $98 2100 series knock off. See how it runs then. But when I do get it spinning above idle, yes, "paint can shaker" is an adequate discription. Found out from the previous owner, he did nothing but an engine tune up to get it to start.... ...SO, Someone put a V8 in it, judging by the oil leaks, actually drove it, at least a little. For whatever reason (let's blame the linkage) it then sat for an unknown period. Then later gotten to "run" by the last guy. The shift linkage was swapped from the column to the tailshaft. Brand and or origin unknown. But it does just feel like something is just super loose, or even missing. Its definitely a linkage issue for now. As for the ignition and brakes. My research concluded "74" was the last year for points. And disc brakes were for the first time an option. Then standard in "75" so the dizzy is at least period, and the 5 lug drums are factory. I also noticed some meathead removed the strut tower braces and they are not it the rest of the parts.
I've heard good & bad about those, one on my '69 Fairlane was junk. Left side booster drew nothing but air. On way home from OH, would barely make 40 MPH up some of the mountains in WVa. I had it totally disassembled in the Belk parking lot in Beckley. First thing I did when I finally arrived home was stick the 2100 from Comet on it. Since I've built a '69 351 2100(was missing almost everything), those are 356 CFM. A 2100 is no doubt easiest of all carbs to rebuild.
One of the reasons I love em. You can rebuild them on the engine if you're daring. I've even adjust floats and changed jets while it was at idle. And they can be adapted to alot of different motors. They do really well on inlines. Saw these for $98 on Amazon prime. Figured I'd give one a shot. At least the throttle plate isn't going to leak.
Lots of good helpful information so far, thank you. Unfortunately it's just way to hot and I lack the spoons to go brave the heat. While sitting, wishing I could go tinker, a thought occurred to me. Coyote 5.0+10speed auto out of a raptor?
