Due to my inexperience I thought you got both the part that bolts onto the carb AND the black plastic part when you bought a new choke. So I thru the whole thing out. Does anyone have the metal part of the choke they want to sell? Or even a broken carb I could take one off of? It is for a 2150 carb.
I know I'm communicating wisdom you've already acquired, but it's a good lesson for everyone working on an old car. Never throw anything away until you compare it to the replacement part.
Not AFAIK... PM me.. Was the choke housing you bought electric or Bimetal?? I'm parting this carb, has a issue with main body. I'll sell every part pertaining to choke as complete assembly. It's basically new, less than 500 miles on it.
...and take the old part with you when buying a new part or you may ended up going back to to get correct part
To be fair, Holley electric choke conversions DO include the housing. Of course those won't fit Autolite/Motorcraft carbs. Since parts carb is metric, I decided to check housing for fit, small foopa. The vacuum port is slightly larger than orig carbs(red straw, at least the 1974 I have). Port in carb(drill bits)can be enlarged to 13/32, or for electric, housing flange can be filed flat. Also hardware is metric, requires original screws to bolt on.
I've seen e-choke conversions for these carbs on ebay, no experience. The 1980 Granada 5.0 carb had a electric choke, Rockauto has Motorcraft unit on closeout, CM3392 @ $8.45. Note these heaters operate from the stator winding of alt, element voltage approx 7v. Connect wire from choke to alt, switched power not required. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...air,carburetor+choke+thermostat+/+heater,6004
thanks for those. Yeah I was reading about them taking less then 12V. Anyone every buy from Mike's Carburetor parts? https://www.carburetor-parts.com/ I saw a lot of videos of people using his stuff with just strait full 12V. I emailed him and asked him about the 7V vs 12V. He said all his stuff was strait 12V. If thats true , which seems to be the case in a lot of things I read, I might go that way as I can run a strait switched power.
The stator does not provide a full 12v, provides a pulsing voltage that averages around 7v. Has no power unless alt is charging, switched voltage not necessary. One of these elements connected to battery voltage will respond too quickly, opening choke before engine is warmed. A 12v type connected to stator will be lazy.