All the lights come on when the key is in the START position and goes off in the RUN position. Here is a quote from the Owners Manual INSTRUMENTS AND CONTROLS The following warning lights should illuminate when the ignition switch is in the START position, If any of them do not light up in the START position, it indicates a malfunction in your car's electrical circuits. Have the electrical system checked out as soon as possible. Engine Temperature Warning Light - The temperature warning light (TEMP) will glow red when the ignition key is in start position to prove that the light and electrical wiring are satisfactory. The light will go out when the key is released to ON position. If the red light glows with the engine running, the car is overheating -STOP ENGINE, have cooling system checked immediately and determine the cause. Otherwise the engine could be severely damaged. Seat Belt Warning Light and Buzzer - The warning light glows and a buzzard sounds when the ignition switch is turned to the START position if someone in the front seat isn't buckled-up. The light and buzzard also come on if a front seat occupant is not buckled-up and the transmission is out of PARK (auto, trans.) or NEUTRAL (manual trans.) with the Ignition switch in the ON position. Brake System Warning Light - A dual master cylinder is used in the brake system. In case of a loss "of hydraulic pressure in either the front or rear brakes, a BRAKES warning light on the instrument panel will light up upon application of the brakes. Any indicated malfunction in the hydraulic braking system should receive immediate attention.
This thread is interesting because I remember having this same exact light behavior/issue in my 74 before I sold it. So I even tried replacing the bulbs in the cluster and that didn't help either. I even replaced the circuit on the back of the cluster... Same thing. And I only remember the ALT light coming on when I turned the key to START. I'm wondering whether this is an issue with 74s, or it's normal behavior.
I just went out and tried mine. The oil and alt lights come on with only the ignition on. The alt light goes out and all the rest of the lights come on while cranking the engine.
Thanks for the input, rthomas771 and simple man! If they're supposed to come on in the START position, that makes more sense since that position is a different circuit from the normal running circuit. Since it doesn't flash on while starting, I can start hunting the problem beginning with what's on the start side of the circuitry. The OIL light coming on makes sense in my head. It's supposed to come on to indicate low oil pressure, which would be true on a motor that isn't running. Since it isn't coming on, either my oil pressure switch is not working or there's a circuit problem again. I'll go out and test the connection like I did the TEMP one. Simple Man, does your BRAKE light come on when cranking the car as well? EDIT: Okay, so I went out and did more testing. Grounding the oil sender wire does pop the OIL light on, so the circuitry appears to be intact. However, attaching the wire to the sender gives me nothing, so I'm guessing my oil pressure sensor is shot. Interestingly, when I went to start the car, sure enough the ALT light went out (again, signal from the alternator there) and the TEMP and BRAKE lights came on!! So it looks like those two systems really are working, and either I didn't notice them (because I didn't think about them coming on during start) or my messing around with the wiring jiggled something back into place. The FASTEN BELTS light not coming on is most likely due to the seatbelt interlock system being bypassed, yes? So at the moment, it looks like I just need a new sensor for the oil. Not totally critical though, I'm not leaking oil anywhere so I should be fine on that. It's temps I'm more worried about. Now to go replace a leaky thermostat cover!! I love you guys, keep 'em runnin'.
Make sure to replace the oil sender as it will start to leak! It is leaking internally, that's why it doesn't work. I also have my seatbelt wiring redone ( to eliminate having to hook them up to start the car and get rid of the buzzer and the light on the dash. Ford felt so confident in this system that they put an override switch under the hood!!!
Oh wow, thanks for the heads up. The first thing is the thermostat cover, but I'll do the oil sender when I put new plug wires, rotor and cap on and redo the timing. Unrelated to the idiot lights, but I discovered why my thermostat cover started leaking. I'm shocked it never did it earlier. There's no bolt on the driver's side of the cover. Previous owner syndrome. Needless to say it's fixed now. Thanks again! P.S. On the seatbelt thing, yeah, no kidding! I remember accidentally pulling the seatbelt 'computer' under the dash and trying to start it. No dice until I hit that button, then realized my mistake. I guess that's why it was only in one model year!
Never been a fan of idiot lights. Best bet is to put a good set of guages in the car so you know what is going on.
