The guy dyno tuning my car in two weeks told me with a 100hp NOS shot (thats the one I am putting in next week) I really do not need to worry about retarding the timing before I use it. I thought the rule was retard it 1 degree for each 50 of hp shot. He said for only a 100hp shot it doesnt really matter. I dont want to run lean and risk motor damage. But this guy only works on very high performance motors and I am lucky he is doing my dyno tuning, I am doing his divorce so thats why he is doing it. Any thoughts?
Put it this way, I would ask him to retard the timeing to be safe, then if it's felt the motor will take more timeing, do it. If the motor blows and I am assuming a stock original type, the pistons are not all that strong nor are the rods. You must get a perspective about NOS vs the normal performance mods. With NOS you are introducing Oxygen into the combustion process that makes huge torque gains instantly. With normal mods using normal air intake, the process is much more tame and uses engine rpm and increased airflow capacities to make the power and is much less touchy. Ask the NOS company what you should allow as a starting point. Every motor will be different.
This is a tricky question, Because you have not said what your total timing is. And is your balancer timing marks correct (True TDC ?). If you want to be the safest you can be on timing with a 100 shot, Make sure the timing doesn't go over 28 degrees total. You may lose a little power. And after you learn to read and tell what the plugs look like then you can start to advance if you feel the need. As far as running lean this is a fuel pressure vs nitrous pressure more than timing. What ever your kit recommends for fuel pressure at a 100 hp setting make sure you have this when the system is activated.You also need to know what bottle pressure the kit is set up on, Most kits set with bottle pressure at 900 psi, But i have saw kits that recommend 1000 psi. If you have to install a fuel pressure gauge and let someone monitor it while you spray this is the only true way to check pressure. The system must be working to set the pressure rite. This is what is called wet flowing the system. There is actually a gauge set up to do this with but its kinda expensive. I just use the plate and a holding container. If you have a electric pump you can do the same. If you are running it off the same pump that powers the car then its a little harder, that will be where you will need a friend to watch the fuel pressure gauge while you spray. Nitrous is fun but it can be very expensive if not treated with respect. Im not taking anything away from your friend, But if he has never used nitrous he may not take into account some of the things i told you. Some engine builders especially the round track builders have never experimented with the spray.
definitly a tricky question. the bigest factor is your compression ratio. most motors in the 9.5 to 1 ratio are not really pushing the compression limits of high octane pump gas. so that leaves room for the added compression that nitrous creates. the ruel of thumb for 2 degrees for every 50 hp is a safe way to approach nitrous tuning. the steps of tuning the motor is to tune it for max power on the motor. then i would retard the timeing 4 degrees for 100 hp shot then reduce the timeing on each run and inspect the spark plugs for signs of detination. this method should enable you to make the most power out of you combination safely.
X2 i will recommend this as you can have your engine tuned to run good on motor then it will retard your timing when on the spray http://store.summitracing.com/partd...8970&N=700+400122+4294846029+115&autoview=sku brad
i think it works on msd only but i can be wrong These units easily connect to your MSD Ignition and can be triggered from points, electronic ignitions, crank triggers, or magnetic pickup distributors. They're supplied with a 2, 3, and 4 degree module, and must be used with an MSD 6, SCI, 7, 8, or 10 Series ignition. brad
